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Hob connection check

But why were Wagos required? Surely it would get wired in as normal to the FCU?

My neighbour got her new hob connected by currys.

The hob came with a plug but there was no socket behind the hob, just a blank plate with screw connectors, the ones that come in a strip.
The installer cut the plug and used Wago 221 to connect the hob and enclosed them in the back box behind the blank plate.
 
The hob came with a plug but there was no socket behind the hob, just a blank plate with screw connectors, the ones that come in a strip.
The installer cut the plug and used Wago 221 to connect the hob and enclosed them in the back box behind the blank plate.
This still doesn't seem to make much sense. Why, I wonder, were Wago connectors necessary when the cable could have been connected directly to the "screw connectors"?
 
This still doesn't seem to make much sense. Why, I wonder, were Wago connectors necessary when the cable could have been connected directly to the "screw connectors"?
I think the electrician wanted to make it neat and used the wagos.
I can't see any other reason.
I have found those screw connectors come loose on my range cooker a few years ago, so maybe the wagos are more reliable.
 
Think you need to take a photo of what's actually behind the fcu, if he's just used Wago's to join the 2 cables and none of the screw terminals on the fcu faceplate then the cable won't be fused by the fcu.
 
Surely this is not an FCU.
It's not totally clear, but I think we're probably talking about a back box (with blank plate) containing a connector block which is 'fed from' an FCU .... I suppose a bit analogous to a 'cooker outlet' accessory being fed from a 'cooker contriol unit'
 
If there is one, the FCU is pointless in this setup. Yes it can be used as isolating the hob but even if a FCU is fitted an unswitched cooker control unit would be equal.
 
If there is one, the FCU is pointless in this setup.
Surely no more 'pointless' than the fuse in the hob cable's plug that was cut off (which certainly wasn't 'pointless')
Yes it can be used as isolating the hob but even if a FCU is fitted an unswitched cooker control unit would be equal.
We're not just talking about isolation - also protection of the cable (and maybe even the hob itself, although that should really be internally-fused if such is deemed necessary). If it's being supplied by a 32A circuit, it's very unlikley that the hob's cablle would be adequately protected without an intervening fuse.
 
Surely no more 'pointless' than the fuse in the hob cable's plug that was cut off (which certainly wasn't 'pointless')
The hob will never draw more than 13A. Worst case scenario would be a short circuit in the hob itself but that will be protected by the MCB upstream.

Removing the fuse when being connected to a ordinary socket (part of a ring for example) still won't be dangerous but it will trip the MCB causing the rest of the sockets to turn off.

(Oh and the fuses you find in plugs are much slower to react)
 
The hob will never draw more than 13A.
I agree that it's very unlikely but, as some here would argue, theoretically not impossible under certain fault conditions.

Are you saying that you would be happy to have a hob connected directly (via cable not necessarily rated for much more than13A) to a 32A circuit? If so, I agree that, in practice, the 'risk' would be very small, but that argument could be used to justify the omission of any number of things included for 'safety' reasons (since nearly all types of electric fault are very rare).
Worst case scenario would be a short circuit in the hob itself but that will be protected by the MCB upstream. .... Removing the fuse when being connected to a ordinary socket (part of a ring for example) still won't be dangerous but it will trip the MCB causing the rest of the sockets to turn off.
As above, there are certain types of fault that can result in loads causing 'overload' (but not 'fault' - as in 'short citrcuit') currents- which could be well above the safe level for the cable concerned but would take a very long time trip a 32 A MCB,, if ever. Again, one will nearly always 'get away with it', but ...... !!
 
Just to be clear:
Hob cable has been joined with wagos to a power cable behind the hob.
These wago joints are enclosed in a backbox and covered by a blank plate.
The power cable goes to a FCU on the wall near the hob.
If FCU is turned off the hob doesn't get any power, that's how I know the cable route.
I hope this is clear now.
Sorry for the confusion
 
Just to be clear: ... Hob cable has been joined with wagos to a power cable behind the hob. ... These wago joints are enclosed in a backbox and covered by a blank plate. .... The power cable goes to a FCU on the wall near the hob.
Thanks for clarifying. Do I take it that the 'hob cable wouldn't reach the FCU - since, if it did reach, the obvious thing to do would have been to connect the hob cable directly to the FCU.

Are you also saying that the FCU was always connected to the back box (covered by a blank plate) which originally contained 'screw connectors' but that that connector has, for whatever reason, now been replaced with Wagos?
 
Are you also saying that the FCU was always connected to the back box (covered by a blank plate) which originally contained 'screw connectors' but that that connector has, for whatever reason, now been replaced with Wagos?
Yes, because that is what the fitters fitted - probably because that is what they do now - use Wagos.
 
Yes, because that is what the fitters fitted - probably because that is what they do now - use Wagos.
That's certainly how it seems - but I think it's really up to the OP, rather than yourself, to confirm that my understanding of what the fittters have done is correct :)

Of course, if the 'hob cable' was long enough to reach the CU, (the other question I asked the OP) then the fitters may have been rather daft to be 'joining' the cable with any sort of connectors!
 

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