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Wiring a new hob: can I use Wago connectors?

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by Mefster, 28 Jun 2020.

  1. Mefster

    Mefster

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    I’m in the middle of replacing a cracked electric hob with an induction hob.
    I’ve removed the old hob- it appears to have the twin and earth supply cable hard wired into the hob. There is no junction box visible.
    The replacement hob comes with an attached cable. On removing the covering plate on the hob where the cable inserts it doesn’t appear that it is designed to have the supply cable directly wired into it. The terminals are not visible.
    I’m going to connect the fixed cable on the new hob to the supply cable, but was wondering if I’ll be ok to use Wago connectors for the job (covered with insulating tape)?
    The maximum power of the new hob is ‘6.400 W’ (I’m assuming that’s 6400W rather than 6.4W!) so at 230V I was calculating just under 28 Amps.
    I’ve got both Wago 221 and 222 connectors. Would they be suitable?
    If not, what would be best? I’m hoping I’ve got the bits I need, otherwise I need to refit the cracked old hob to cook dinner tonight!
     
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  3. bernardgreen

    bernardgreen

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    NO. it would require the connections to be enclosed in a suitable protective box which also must provide secure cable clamps for the cables.
     
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  4. Mefster

    Mefster

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    Thanks for the fast reply. Would something like a Wagobox junction box be ok? Using 221 connectors?
    If not, what kind of junction boy would be best suited?
     
  5. johnny2007

    johnny2007

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  6. bernardgreen

    bernardgreen

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    The 221 is rated at 32 amps.

    If the box is water proof and has cable clamps ( or strain relief ) to ensure the cables cannot pull on the connections inside the box then the box should be OK, The box should be fixed to the wall and not left dangling

    Better in the long term to fit an appliance outlet such as the one posted by johnny2007.
     
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  7. Taylortwocities

    Taylortwocities

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    What size cable are you using? My guess is you'll have 6mm from your CU? Probably the same to the hob?

    Look at the spec for those connectors. Yes they are rated at 32A BUT 221 and 222 can only handle up to 4mm².
     
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  8. Mefster

    Mefster

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    If I was fitting new cabinetry I'd definitely go down this path, but at the moment I only have about 15cm gap between the top of the back of the carcass and the granite top through which I can see the rear wall. I don't see how I could het adequate access to fit a back box. I think my only way is to screw a junction box to the wall.
     
  9. Mefster

    Mefster

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    I've just realised that as well when I had a look at the diameter of cable into the hob!
    Looks like the new hob is coming out again and the old one going back in until I can get some 6mm 30A rated connectors and a junction box!
    Does anyone know of a suitable product (ideally that I can pick up from screwfix or get delivered from amazon) so that I can complete the job?
    Thanks!
     
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  11. johnny2007

    johnny2007

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    Confusing.
    Any pictures?
    Sounds like you have just a cable coming out of the wall.
    Anyhow, if you pull your oven out (2 or 4 screws) you will have plenty of space, unless you have a non conventional set up.
     
  12. johnny2007

    johnny2007

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    Sorry, double post.
     
  13. Mefster

    Mefster

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    Sorry, reassembled to cook dinner before I took any photos.
    The hob isn’t over the oven: it sits over some drawers. The cabinet beneath the hob which houses the drawers has an encased back so I can’t see the rear plaster wall, except for a gap about 10cm at the top (through which the twin and earth power supply cable is fed).
    Does that make sense?
     
  14. Mefster

    Mefster

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    Here’s a photo: a bit of a mess I’m afraid! Hopefully this shows it a little more clearly...
    A0DD95EE-DC0F-41B3-947C-19DFA909412A.jpeg
     
  15. johnny2007

    johnny2007

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    Don't know if it complies, but you could fit a patress box at the back of the cabinet and then connect a cooker outlet.
    An electrician here could confirm if feasible.
    Surely would be neater and easier.
     
  16. Taylortwocities

    Taylortwocities

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    Yes, no problemo
     
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  17. bernardgreen

    bernardgreen

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    You could remove a small area of the back board to get access to the wall to fit the cooker outlet on the wall.
     
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