hob oven and combi microwave wiring

Fanx all for the helpful posts and input. The micro wave is model JLBIO2 product 947640685. Grill 1.55kw, conv 1.7kw and according to Mi,s needs a 15amp fuse??? Only achievable in my case by fitting a 16amp mcb in an adjacent cupboard. Question is tho feed it from the cooker isolator or spur off the ring??

Cheers all Harry
This is from the manual....
"The oven is equipped with a power cable
and a plug for single phase current."
 
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Rivalt, trust me mate I'm looking at it and there is a lead but no plug and the booklet
says requires 15amp fuse.....how?. This is ambiguous to say the least. Another poster said anything over 2kw shouldn't be plugged in.......my kettlle is 2.8kw??
Cheers
Harry
 
The manual has clearly had some bad copy and paste done on it at some point.

The rating of this appliance is 3400W and it cannot be plugged in.
 
Rivalt, trust me mate I'm looking at it and there is a lead but no plug and the booklet
says requires 15amp fuse.....how?. This is ambiguous to say the least. Another poster said anything over 2kw shouldn't be plugged in.......my kettlle is 2.8kw??
Harry
This is the manual from the Lewis's website - I assume it is the same model that you have in front of you.
http://johnlewis.scene7.com/is/content/JohnLewis/89090202pdf?
I cannot find any reference to 15A in this manual - this seems to be the standard European fuse for this and other appliances that are sold across the empire.
If this is the manual and there is no plug then you need to speak to Lewis's technical support and take their advice.
 
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The John Lewis product is a rebadged AEG MC3881E-M

The manual for that product says:-

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It also doesn't mention plugs :)
 
The rating of this appliance is 3400W and it cannot be plugged in.
If this counts as a 'household cooking appliance', cannot the infamous diversity be applied? The after-diversity current consumption of a 3400W cooking appliance (at 230V) is around 11.4A.

Kind Regards, John
 
I just wonder given the values for the grill, oven and microwave how they get 3.4kw?
My advice to the OP is still to ring Lewis's technical support - even though the oven may not have come with a plug they do add in their instruction that for permanent installations a dual FCU is required. As per..

If the oven is to be installed on a permanent basis it should be installed by a qualified technician.
In such a case, the oven should be connected to a circuit with an all-pole circuit breaker with a minimum separation
of 3 mm between contacts.
 
The rating of this appliance is 3400W and it cannot be plugged in.
If this counts as a 'household cooking appliance', cannot the infamous diversity be applied? The after-diversity current consumption of a 3400W cooking appliance (at 230V) is around 11.4A.
As microwave ovens have developed into combi's you could well be right regarding the application of diversity.
However, at the moment, I don't believe diversity needs to be applied for microwaves - they appear to have their own, built in.
Due to the way they are programmed at best two of the methods for cooking are used at any one time. viz.
Microwave
Grill
Fan oven
Microwave/Grill
Microwave/Fan oven
Grill/fan oven?
Maybe there are some that do Microwave/Grill/Fan oven all at once.
 
I just wonder given the values for the grill, oven and microwave how they get 3.4kw?
Indeed. The instructions for the OP's appliance indicate that, as with most (all?) combis, one cannot use all three ‘functions’ simultaneously (indeed, it’s not clear as to whether ‘hot air’/convection actually uses a different element from ‘grill’). The ‘worst case’ is therefore presumably 1.6 kW for hot air plus the microwave. We’re only told the output of the microwave (1 kW), but if the input required to achieve that output were 1.8 kW, then it would add up to 3.4 kW - but that is all totally speculative.

As you say, I'm sure the OP needs to ask technical support about all this. I have to say that I personally have not come across a domestic combi-microwave that cannot be used with a 13A plug.

Edit: just noticed your latest post - we seem to be thinking similarly.

Kind Regards, John
 
Mine has a heating element in the bottom, a circular element in the back surrounded by the fan and a grill at the top. In other words, it's exactly the same as a real single oven, except it's a microwave as well.

It has a quick heat up function which uses all three to get it to temperature. During that process, it's quite clear that the unit will be consuming a significant amount of power continuously for several minutes.

There are plenty of large built in combi units which have just as big (if not bigger) power requirements than a standard single oven.

They aren't all countertop models with a bezel placed around them.
 
We’re only told the output of the microwave (1 kW), but if the input required to achieve that output were 1.8 kW, then it would add up to 3.4 kW - but that is all totally speculative

The 1kW figure is the output. Non-inverter microwaves (which this one is) are typically only 60-70% efficient, so the power consumption of the microwave part will probably be 1500-1600W.

Couple that with the hot air at 1600W, then maybe another 100 odd watts for control panel, fans, lamps and it's easy to see that you're over the limit for a 13A plugtop with just the microwave and grill on.
 
Mine has a heating element in the bottom, a circular element in the back surrounded by the fan and a grill at the top. In other words, it's exactly the same as a real single oven, except it's a microwave as well.
That's very interesting - my normal fan oven (13A plug) doesn't have the bottom element only the top grill and rear element with fan.
I am intrigued to know what the make and model number of your combination microwave oven is?
 
We’re only told the output of the microwave (1 kW), but if the input required to achieve that output were 1.8 kW, then it would add up to 3.4 kW - but that is all totally speculative
The 1kW figure is the output. Non-inverter microwaves (which this one is) are typically only 60-70% efficient, so the power consumption of the microwave part will probably be 1500-1600W. ... Couple that with the hot air at 1600W, then maybe another 100 odd watts for control panel, fans, lamps and it's easy to see that ...
That's exactly what I said, isn't it - that one could account for the stated 3400W maximum in that fashion? However...
... you're over the limit for a 13A plugtop with just the microwave and grill on.
As I said in a previous post, I see no reason why one cannot apply 'OSG diversity' - whereby a domestic cooking appliance which can take 3400W has an after-diversity current demand of about 11.4A, which is obviously within the limits for a 13A plug.

Kind Regards, John
 
There are plenty of large built in combi units which have just as big (if not bigger) power requirements than a standard single oven.
There are, indeed - and, of course, many of those 'standard single ovens' are, themsleves (thanks to diversity!), supplied via a 13A plug.

Kind Regards, John
 
That's exactly what I said, isn't it

Yep - I was agreeing with you and validating your theoretical numbers.

As I said in a previous post, I see no reason why one cannot apply 'OSG diversity' - whereby a domestic cooking appliance which can take 3400W has an after-diversity current demand of about 11.4A, which is obviously within the limits for a 13A plug.

Diversity isn't real world though is it, it's a fudge, and partly relies on the fact the the circuit protection device and cable are actually overrated for just about every installation, and will easily be able to cope with slight overloads during the brief time that all four hob elements are being heated simultaneously.

Using the calcs we've just done above, it's clear that the above combi microwave will indeed be consuming 3400W with the grill and microwave on, and may do so for large chunks of time at once.

Fine on a bit of 4mm cable direct to the consumer unit, but not a good idea through a 13A plug/socket arrangement?
 

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