Will check choke as suggested.If it's an early machine with a manual choke, do make sure the choke is operating fully.....it won't start well from cold otherwise but should be OK when hot.
If its an auto choke system then this should be done for you, but you need to check that the choke flap is fully shut - you can see this with the air filter outer cover off.
John
It's a manual choke checking tomorrow, if it requires adjustment to give more choke whats the procedure ?A manual choke is adjusted by moving the cable, an auto choke is operated by the expansion of a wax capsule....not as successful as one would hope!
John
Basically it involves moving the cable back in its clamp.....often enough the lever can be at its maximum but the choke still doesn't operate and moving the cable back gives it that extra movement required.
Post a photo of the cable end if you like.
John
Any ideas what I should try next. ThanksYep, that sounds about right.
John
When the machine does go, how does it perform? Does it idle well, speed up as expected and have plenty of power.....and no sign of any smoke of any colour?
John
Thanks for the explanation here!
As you say the engine is hunting, it presumably is repeatedly revving up, then down.....this is in fact due to a slight fuel starvation. As the engine chuffs smoke with choke on, this shows that all is in order in this area.
On full throttle the engine should rev nicely at a constant speed.
These engines are normally excellent starters but now it's time to delve into the carburettor to give it a proper clean. At least you'll need a can of aerosol carb cleaner and an air line is very handy too.
This involves taking the carburettor off the engine (two long bolts, 10mm head) and removing the float bowl (10mm spanner) followed by extraction of the main jet and emulsion tube above it -- 6mm slotted head screwdriver for this one. Its not a bad job, you can't do any harm but care is essential when removing the governor / choke rods from the carb top, and cleanliness is essential.
John
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