Honeywell T6360B Upgrade

Why would you need a diagram to wire up heating controls? It's hardly rocket science.

Boiler manufacturers include in the installations instructions little gems of advice such as " before carrying the boiler to the location ensure the route is clear of all obstructions and trip hazards "

Maybe they feel installers need to be guided every step of the way to reduce the number of complaints from un-happy owners of their boilers.
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Yes you can, as per this

View attachment 98255

Thanks a lot Bernard.

I understand I should be able to control the temperature at home if new thermostat wired per diagram.

Is there an option to control a hot water from the same new Nest thermostat too ? - are additional wires required to achieve this? - currently I can do it only directly from the boiler.


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Is there an option to control a hot water from the same new Nest thermostat too
I do not know the answer to that but I very much doubt the Nest has the ability to control hot water. It is after all sold as a thermostat and not as a controller.
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Some might say that ignoring questions from those trying to help is rude.

Didn't stop you though did it?

What voltages are you getting to the current stat?

Would say it's 240V as only checked with fluke - will get my multi-meter hooked up when have some spare time

Where do the current stat wires terminate?

Would have to open the boiler to check that which is not recommended by unqualified person.

Do you have an existing programmer?


Do you want rid of this?


Where do you want the Heat Link?

Next to the boiler (1st floor)

What cables are you hoping to conceal so that it is aesthetically pleasing?

If I can power the Heat Link from the boiler (new cable to be installed on the wall) and re-use existing wires for the stat (ground floor) installation that would be great.

Am I missing anything else here?
Jesus, I have one bank holiday weekend of and it still gets no better.

OP If you want an aesthetically pleasing install without junction boxes, choc boxes or some form of cable connection below the boiler then you need to open the casing up. From experience I am assuming that you have one cable from the stat to the boiler popping through the wall and entering the boiler which has been plastered over and has next to zero play on it.

Boiler will be connected to 240V switching to the stat and have a separate 240V feed from switched fused spur to boiler.

To create an aesthetically pleasing install and to make the install easier I would use the existing stat cable (removed from the boiler) and use that to power stat from the heat link @12V provided the existing cables are no more than 2mm2 which they dont appear to be.

You would provide 240V from the switched fused spur to the Heatlink.

Then you would switch it @24V from the boiler negating the need to add an additional link in the Heatlink

You will also need to earth the Heatlink if using T1 and T2 connections as per MI's

The above will give you a cleaner, tidier and easier install rather than the sparks suggested way of chopping into existing cables and extending and adding junction boxes etc.

Hey Aquaheat , as I'm a plumber does it mean I can't give any advise on this thread?;)

Oh but GW you are more than just a plumber. I know many a plumber that does not touch boilers, controls, BMS etc etc but can do more than me when it comes to lead work, cast and drainage. I know my limits and they know theirs. I know you can do both to a high standard.

Extremely hurtful...:ROFLMAO:

Sorry GW


I'll kiss it better for you. :p

Jeff will be along in a minute now!

Is there an option to control a hot water from the same new Nest thermostat too ? - are additional wires required to achieve this? - currently I can do it only directly from the boiler.

This statement alone kind of proves our point. You really don't understand what you are doing and what you can/want to achieve.

Yes you can control the hot water from a 3rd gen Nest. It would indeed require you adding additional wires.

You would also need to add a cylinder, a cylinder stat, a 3 port or 2 x 2 port valves depending on what system you want, additional pipework. You could have Y plan, S plan, S plan +, C plan, W plan or you could just use your combi as it was intended if you are happy with your performance.


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