Honeywell v4073a1039 Y Valve Faulty???

[old wrinkly]

Hi

This morning I found that our water wasn't very hot. We had a similar problem a few of weeks ago and then it seemed to sort itself out once I tweaked the auto/man lever.

I have checked the casing of the valve and that is hot and I can feel there is hot water flowing out of the valve to the tank but it is only hot up to the 2nd elbow i.e. the actual pipe going into the tank isn't hot. Also the pipe coming from the top of the tank is only warm as is the top of the tank itself.

We are due to go away shortly so if it doesn't fix itself will have to revert to immersion until I can get it fixed.

Just wanted to check that the fact the hot water pipe from the valve only seems to hot for a short section is normal. I have also tried upping the tank stat to see if that makes any difference.

I have turned off the power completely as I read somewhere this resets the valve to hot water, but again no discernible difference. Have now left hot water on all day to see what happens.

Thanks

 

[CBW]

Probably stuck in central heating or possibly mid position, do you get hot water with heating on?

 

[old wrinkly]

heating is permanently on at moment controlled by room stat, should I turn heating off and see what happens. Read that if I set honeywell to manual it might reset itself.

 

[ianmcd]

if your heating is on all the time set the valve to maual and the HW should heat up even if the valve is faulty

 

[old wrinkly]

Thanks will give it a try.

 

[old wrinkly]

Hve set to manual and can hear a pulsating sound for about a minute then silent and can feel water passing. Have to see how hot the water is later but still confused as to why the pipe into the tank isn't hot all along it's length. The top outlet pipe isn't getting as hot as normal think a replacement maybe only solution unless it could be something else.

 

[CBW]

Could be scale buildup?

 

[HERTS P&D]

Is there an air bleed valve near the cylinder?

Andy

 

[old wrinkly]

Thanks for the updates. As far as I am aware there is no bleed valve near the cylinder only a drain down valve but I could be wrong. I was hoping it would just be a case of changing the 3 port valve head as this is something I could do OK as there is no draining down involved and I can buy replacement online. But beginning to wonder now if I should get a plumber in. Unfortunately, the plumber we have had for over 25 years is running down his business to retire so isn't as freely available as he has been in the past, I would therefore need to find somebody else but it's making the right choice.

Incidentally the lever for auto/manual doesn't seem to have any resistance is that correct?

Question now I suppose is do I pay out for the replavement valve head and see if that works or go for broke and call a plumber in......what do you think???

 

[dilalio]

Ask your loyal plumber if he has someone he is passing his customer base onto and can recommend to you, to take over from him.

You could also take the power head off the valve and manipulate the spindle in either CH or HW call from stats to see if you can get heat flowing into the cylinder coil.

As Andy mentions, there may be air locked in the coil or coil return and a manual bleed valve on that would help determine/remove an air lock. Look for one on the coil return.

 

[old wrinkly]

Good morning, have checked but unable to find bleed valve. Haven't got time to take the power head off the valve as going away for a few days.Will have to sort out when I get back.

Fundamental question is should I buy a replacement replacement valve head or would that be a waste of money (not likely to be the problem) ??

 

[HERTS P&D]

Post more pictures of your pipe work.

Andy

 

[old wrinkly]

Apologies but need to park this for a few days as have a family issue to resolve.

 

[old wrinkly]

Hi back again. I bought a replacement y valve head and tried to fit it this morning but it didn't plan out as expected as the replacement was a very tight fit and the water pump didn't want to work and ir kept clicking. As always I made a careful note of which wires I was working with.

I removed the replacment and refitted the original but the pump is still not working which it was before I delved into the wiring.

My wiring is as follows:

PUMP

Live to V40378 Orange

Neutral to V40378 Blue

Earth to V40378 Green/Yellow

The remaining V40378 wires are

Grey Blue of the Tank Stat and Earth from Hostmann Centaur Pogrammer

White to Grey (Room Stat)

The image isn't very good I'm afraid but it's the best I could do as it's difficult for me to get down and work in the confined space.

I can't think what I have got wrong.....I have been over and over it again and again now even thinking of changing the y valve back to the replacement????

 

[old wrinkly]

Hi have refitted the replacement and now I have hot water and heating water from y valve but only it seems when the HW is active and the radiators seem to to taking a long time to warm, almost as if the pump is still not working properly but the pump casing is hot and if I put a screwdrive to my ear I can hear the pump motor running. As soon as I turn the HW off I can't hear any movement in the pump.

So it a minor step forward but not there yet.