Hot air gun for capillary joints?

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I need to solder a couple of fittings on 8mm copper, but the numpty who installed the system decided he'd try and make them as awkward as possible, right in a corner, making using a blowlamp fairly awkward.
Anybody tried using a hot air gun?
 
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Can you put a heat mat behind the pipe to protect the wall, or is there still insufficient room to get in there. You may have to cut the pipe section out, repair it (or whatever you need to do) and then refit the section back in.
 
My hot air gun came with an attachment for encompassing a 15mm pipe for just that purpose... I promised myself that I'd try it one day... that was 10 years ago!!
 
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I know, promises promises. And did you promise to call in the morning as well,
 
Ah, now that's where it's double standards. For women, it's the train of shame, and for men, it's a badge of honour. So glad I'm not a woman this time round.
 
My hot air gun came with an attachment for encompassing a 15mm pipe for just that purpose

Of course, I could have been sexist (and mysogonistic) and made a very rude comment about your better halfs kissing equipment, on that statement. Or evern worse.
 
Can you put a heat mat behind the pipe to protect the wall, or is there still insufficient room to get in there. You may have to cut the pipe section out, repair it (or whatever you need to do) and then refit the section back in.
There's so little space I'll probably have to use a thin sheet of metal to protect the wall/skirting. I'm fitting 15mm valves for new radiators, so cutting out isn't an option. It's not even going to be easy to check for the solder line on the bottom of the fitting - dental style mirror should help.
Last resort will be trying to top up the solder from above.
And on the subject of solder, are plumbers solder and electrical solder the same stuff?
 
1. Try using a few thicknesses of aluminium foil as a heat shield. If you can crinkle it up a bit it is particularly effective.
2. You can get the dental type mirrors from Screwfix (Item 64760) or cheaper elsewhere.
3. Plumbers solder and electrical solder are not the same, and neither are the fluxes used with them. Use proper plumbers solder and a flux like LaCo or PowerFlow.
4. If you are going to have to buy a blow torch, solder, flux and a mirror, you're probably look at £80 to £100 in tools and consumables. Might be cheaper to get someone to do it and let them have the access problems!
 
Didn't think foil would stand up but I suppose the heavy duty turkey stuff might. I've got a couple of mirrors - one dentist size from a GEC switchgear toolkit, the other's an extending one from a RR toolkit that you nearly need a telescope for a full stretch.
The solder I'm referring to is the thick chunky stuff - about 15mm triangular section - used in HV terminations, not the multicore stuff used in electronics. I was just curious if it's the same stuff. Bit heavy for what I need.
I've got all the bits and bobs in my 'more than you'll ever need' tool collection amassed over the years.
The problem with getting somebody else to do it is the job would grow arms and legs, and that's what I'm trying to avoid.
 
You asked our advice and it has been given. Your choice completely whether you take it or not.
 
I have been buying Marks and Sparks disposable roasting trays for a quid recently, very thick foil and I use them as trays when painting

A video on YouTube confirms that you can solder with the hot air gun

Expensive to buy but there are those electronic jobs that clamp the pipes
 
There's so little space I'll probably have to use a thin sheet of metal to protect the wall/skirting

If there's so little space, then I would suggest that the job may be beyond your capabilities. Turkey foil and metal will both thransfer the heat through to the skirting board; now a heat mat placed that tight will also transfer heat through, but not as much as metal or foil will.
 

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