Hot water not turning off completely. DUPLICATE THREAD

[Colindr]

Hi All

I have a dripping hot water tap in the kitchen so thought this was as good a time as any to replace both taps. You can get new pair of pillar taps approx £15 at DIY stores. I can stop the cold water from the mains stop cock, but I have a hot water tank upstairs in airing cupboard, and although I turned the red gate valve near the tank to shut off the feed, the kitchen tap still continues the flow a little. I left it an hour or so thinking it needed to drain out of the pipes, but still it continued to flow.

https://vid.me/8MxG

Initially I attempted to uncouple the screw connector below the sink but the water coming through the hot water pipe is flowing out too much to replace the tap in the time needed. I quickly re-tightened the connector. Funnily enough since I did this the drip as slowed to 1 every 40 seconds, instead of 1 in every 5. A little more bearable but ideally I would still like to replace both taps. I've heard you can drain the whole tank system but this can create airlocks? Will this be a problem when turning the mains feed on again?

 

[oldbuffer]

1. The taps you can get for £15 are unlikely to be high quality.
2. Its likely that the red gate valve which controls the flow of water into the base of your hot water cylinder is not shutting off fully. You might try closing it a little further, but don't use too much force or it may shear internally and have to be replaced. Try opening the hot tap, then opening and closing the gate valve a few times, might dislodge the muck and sludge enough.
3. If you've got the space under the kitchen sink:
a. Plenty of old towels down.
b. Isolation valve (preferably full bore) ready to fit and in the "off" position.
c. Clean all paint, muck, Verdigris etc. of hot water pipe.
d. Cut hot water pipe with a pipe slice (not a hacksaw or similar), get the isolation valve on fast.
e. Dry up the water.

Repeat the performance for the cold feed pipe. The with both isolation valves shut you can remove the taps and replace them at your leisure. Don't forget that:

1. If the new taps are to be fitted using tap connectors, you will need new 1/2" fibre washers.
2. If the new taps are to be fitted using flexible connectors, these shouldn't really be fitted directly to the isolation valves. There should be a short piece of copper pipe from the valve ending in a 15mm / 1/2" male iron (made of brass) between them. Check what size connection the new taps have, some will require a 15mm / 3/8" male iron. Toolstation do a solid brass connection piece.
3. If the new taps come with copper tails these will probably be 15mm, and you'll need some copper pipe (perhaps the bits you've removed) and a couple of straight connectors to connect the tail to the isolation valves.

 

[Phill Peck]

Why was my post removed?


****************
Moderator's note

It wasn't.

This is a duplicate thread

*****************
see https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/hot-water-not-turning-off-completely-duplicate-thread-1.480925/

 

[Phill Peck]

I commented genuine advice

 

[Randum]

Stick something in the cistern outlet tank connector from inside the cistern to bung it up. Open Tap and the negative pressure will help hold the bung in place. Then change tap.

 

[Randum]

I've heard a carrot works well. Never tried it myself as I have a rubber bung for said purpose.