Hotpoint WD61x Washing Machine .. Interlock Switch Wiring!

[aidanodr]

Hi Guys,

Stupidly when removing the dud Interlock Switch from my Hotpoint Washing Machine I got distracted by her in doors while disconnecting the cables from the old one.

Their are three cables - BLACK, RED, BROWN.

On the Switch:

http://www.fersay.com/download/bancorecursos/Fersay/productos/68IG230.jpg

Their are three connector prongs - far left on picture L, next right N, next right again C.

As far as I remember the BLACK was on L ( Live? )

Anyone got ideas what colour wires go where on this?

Aidan
Any one

 

[rocks1]

red common, black in the middle netural, brown live .

 

[aidanodr]

Hi Rocks1,

thanks for that.

As in "Who wants to be a millionaire" phone a friend - HOW Sure are you of this?

I thought myself the black was connected to the L

Aidan

 

[rocks1]

very sure just look at my posts .i do these in my sleep ,the black is deff netuel goes to the first connecter block on the pcb if the door lock goes it also takes out track on pcb.

 

[aidanodr]

Hey Rocks1,

Thanking you, I just for obvious reasons wanted to make sure before attempting this lest I blow myself up

Would you advice so - before I go to the trouble of getting a new Interlock Switch to inspect the PCB?

In my case ( in Cork, Ireland ) the PCB? is vertically positioned top right over at the Front Top Corner of the WD61x. This unit easy to remove?

To be honest if it turns out to be callouts and parts near €200 I will just buy a new unit for €350, this is why I am taking this route at the mo,

The Unit is actually called a HOTPOINT AQUARIUS 1100 WASHER DRYER.

Aidan

 

[rocks1]

what was the prob before u took the lock off ,if it was not locking ie bang the lock it works, or dead. if its dead the the pcb has a blown track on it ,to remove pcb undo 4 screws by dispenser unclip the blacks wires to selector switchs consol panel falls forward .2 big screws to the timer undo and timer pulls away edge connecters on top and bottom .bottom wires are grey /blue /blue black /purple green. top ones black/ blue/ green red to moter .mc made in 1997 stopped in 2000 .lovely blue consol panel.

 

[rocks1]

ps the other website you put a request on wont tell you the wiring .

 

[aidanodr]

ps the other website you put a request on wont tell you the wiring .

Jeez, You get around

I had put that message up there in the interim before you answered back double checking out of nerves, meanwhile you answered. As it happens one answer - the same.

Basically when we put in a wash yesterday morning and closed the door, switched on - no DOOR CLOSED red light, so machine dead. However when I pressed the door in a few times the red light came on / flashed for a second. Went off again when I eased up on pressing.

I made an assumption if the light could still come on that it had something to do with the Interlock Switch? Maybe I am wrong?

I know I blamed others in my first message but it was my fault - I should have taken down the colors first, mea culpa,

Thanks for info so far - most helpful and much appreciated!

Aidan

 

[rocks1]

yes door lock faulty part number 1602390 .in the top right corner of the lock is a number if it says 97/ 98 it needs changing .

 

[aidanodr]

yes door lock faulty part number 1602390 .in the top right corner of the lock is a number if it says 97/ 98 it needs changing .

The Interlock Switch Unit is a METALFLEX Tip ZV-445

To the right of that text is a small 4 and 98

Further down it says Model M 4


Aidan

 

[rocks1]

made in 98. change it its duff .

 

[aidanodr]

If you ever need computer / internet related assistance? Not sure if you can send a message to me via here?

Have to wait til tomorrow to get said part ..

Aidan

 

[aidanodr]

Hi Rocks1,

Tis the day after - I got the new interlock switch ( $25 ). Fitted it as per your instructions - THANK YOU FOR THAT.

Before I continue, does it matter which way around one fits each individual wire to its appropriate prong?

Anyway, The door closes in place. BUT now no DOOR CLOSED light and not a whimper from the unit.

Sounds like the PCB is gone also?

I assume I am closer to a new machine at this stage? Callout costs here in Ireland plus parts are always high. A new unit is about €380 for a hotpoint.

Any other ideas appreciated, becoming a bit of a DIY challenge

Aidan

 

[rocks1]

any way round .pcb has a burnt track on the first connecter block . any good with a soldering iron

 

[aidanodr]

By the way will the machine work with the top "hood" off or are their sensors that detect this?

Aidan