Hotpoint WD61x Washing Machine .. Interlock Switch Wiring!

[aidanodr]

And todays report ..

I got a meter and did continuity tests from plug to on / off switch to board to motor. From the Interlock switch ...

Continuity fine on all.

Still no start - I even changed the whole sealed plug to a new one .. no go!

Giving up at this stage as the next thing is an engineer who will charge per hour from his site and parts. A new Hotpoint is around €400, I reckon by the time an engineer is finished I would be half that price anyway SO ...

Thanks for all your help,
Would have loved to solve, but wife roarin at me that the washing is stacking up

Cheers
Aidan

 

[rocks1]

phone hotpoint all in charge parts and lab 100 .00.

 

[aidanodr]

Thanks Rocks,

I did that - here the callout cost inc parts is €159.

We decided to go for a new one coming in at €389. Plus €20 for delivery and collection of the old one.

We got good innings out of the wd61x, no probs for over 10 years. Made the above decision as we said if the old one is acting up now we could be in for a string of repairs from now on.

Two callouts is near cost of the above new one.

So thanks for all the advice and help, much appreciated.

Cheers
Aidan

PS for others that arrive at this message, sorry for no resolution in the end. Though some of Rocks advice here may still help you .. ( I hate arriving at unresolved threads )

 

[mick111112]

Just wondering if rocks could help me with a similar problem as in this post except that the door will not open on my washing machine and the green door locked lamp remains on. The door interlock is also a TIP ZV-445 and the locking pin is permanently out. If you could give us a quick description of how this interlock works and the state it should be in with no power on it this would be a great help as I am about to buy a replacement door lock and just want to be sure that its the problem. Thanks in advance.

 

[rocks1]

it works on a slider ,you can release it from inside by flicking the metal pin back .also check the wiring loom on the motor plug if its tied to the motor it shaffers and trips power causing lock to jam shut. lock is only about a tenner try ebay .

 

[mick111112]

thanks for that rocks 1 going to buy the part on the way home (its my mothers washing machine and she is willing to pay that bit more to have it repaired that bit sooner hopefully). Will check the wiring also as suggested, thanks again.

 

[mick111112]

Washing machine repaired and running again. Got door interlock for 25 euro and fitted and machine would still not work, as rocks1 rightly mentioned track for neutral wire to the door interlock was burnt out. Repaired this fault and washing machine is now working fine, thanks for all your help lads.

 

[rocks1]

 

[Nothingistooscary]

but I just wanted to express my thanks to rocks1 for all the info in this thread which has enabled me to diagnose and repair my WD61 which started up and then went bang: the interlock switch was in the duff range and had blown a bunch of tracks off the back of the PWB: a new interlock switch and some soldering, along with rocks1's handy notes on where all the plugs go again (never rely on memory: draw it or take a note or, better still, a photo!) and it's happily cranking away as I type.

One note I'd like to add: a defective interlock switch will latch itself again even after you manually release it, and will be open circuit across the N and L terminals when you stick your meter on them. A good switch will have a resistance of 1.4kΩ or so.

 

[rocks1]

 

[Siftah]

Useful thread!

I'm having a similar problem and think I've traced it down to the door-lock. When I test the lock with a multimeter (disconnected from the machine) I can't ever get continuity across any of the terminals regardless of whether I move the slider in (as if the door were shut). I'm presuming this means the lock is bust and am going to find and order a new one.



I'd not thought to check the PCB terminals, but I'll do that next - great thread, thanks.

 

[rizla01]

Useful thread!

I'm having a similar problem and think I've traced it down to the door-lock. When I test the lock with a multimeter (disconnected from the machine) I can't ever get continuity across any of the terminals regardless of whether I move the slider in (as if the door were shut). I'm presuming this means the lock is bust and am going to find and order a new one.



I'd not thought to check the PCB terminals, but I'll do that next - great thread, thanks.

I have a WM53 with the same problem but I replaced the door switch and still the problem is there.

I have now connected the red to brown (L to C) using a toggle switch and it works fine.

I assume the only danger is that someone might get their arm ripped off by the spinning drum (or puddles of soapy water).

So, despite buying & fitting a new switch I can only get the WM to operate by bypassing the door switch.

Does this indicate that I HAVE or HAVE NOT got a burned out PCB (to save me from having to dismantle further) or just a faulty switch?

Once again I suspect I will have moved on before this Q is answered but it might assist someone else.

Thanks, for reading.

 

[rocks1]

Blown track on pcb. Netural supply this is found under the first block of black wires.

 

[rizla01]

Yep, Thanks.

it would appear to be the 1st one in from the front of the machine. (Black connector)

Looks like I am lucky - just the one blown off.

Soldering iron now heating up.

Thanks

BTW the part came from AMAZON marketplace (Radford Vac Centre ) who were VERY helpful, and was just around £7.00 DELIVERED.

Billy Bargain since our local supplier wanted £13.50 collected. (£4 petrol)


Just to add: 1x WM53 up and running now and I even clipped all the wires back in place.

Thanks Rocks.

 

[numsod]

red common, black in the middle netural, brown live .

just had to join up to thank "rocks1" for the info he has given to others as it helped me out with my interlock on my wm54p, maybe ill keep my account open for nxt time!!. a big thanks to the rock!!