House takes ages to heat up
- Thread starter clayton
- Start date
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Had the plumber over who moved some pipes in the garage to check his work and says the flow and return are connected as before this is not to say the system was possibly fitted wrong in the first place, He thinks that the flow side has a blockage that is causing the return side to heat up first and because the pipe run is shorter now the boiler is over heating faster and shutting down and is recommending a power flush, whats the going rate for a power flush these days ?? ... Re the F&E tank, that was emptied about a year ago and cleaned out and now looks messy.
And yes on heating or water we get water via the vent pipe as in the video. Do you think a power flush is the correct thing to do ?
And yes on heating or water we get water via the vent pipe as in the video. Do you think a power flush is the correct thing to do ?
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Can't second guess the plumber if he says flow&return are connected correctly but quite surprised that the return heats first, if so.
If only you could get someone to trace the pipe where it says "From Boiler Flow" down through the floor and verify that its from the boiler flow.
If you run on HW only, does the cylinder coil feel hotter where it comes out of the cylinder bottom than it does at the coil top entry (after mid position valve) ??.
There is only one almost 100% guaranteed way to stop the vent carry over (short of going fully sealed) and that is to combine the vent with the cold feed like my 50 year old system, the cold feed should be in 22mm as well and the cold feed should be blanked off at the connection, at top, left side of the "H" above your pump.
If only you could get someone to trace the pipe where it says "From Boiler Flow" down through the floor and verify that its from the boiler flow.
If you run on HW only, does the cylinder coil feel hotter where it comes out of the cylinder bottom than it does at the coil top entry (after mid position valve) ??.
There is only one almost 100% guaranteed way to stop the vent carry over (short of going fully sealed) and that is to combine the vent with the cold feed like my 50 year old system, the cold feed should be in 22mm as well and the cold feed should be blanked off at the connection, at top, left side of the "H" above your pump.
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No I moved into the this house about two years ago the house was empty for a year so have no idea when the boiler was last serviced before it was done last year, with the boiler set to 65 it can take in the winter 5 hrs to get upto temp, the new copper pipe in the airing cupboard was cut out and replaced because it was partially blocked and new pump fitted.
Im in the middle of having a garaghe conversion and some of the original pipe work had to be moved this seems to have caused an issue that the boiler now cuts out after 10 minutes with F22 and F25 codes and im not getting any air from the rads, boiler is silet when it runs but will stop and start.
Im in the middle of having a garaghe conversion and some of the original pipe work had to be moved this seems to have caused an issue that the boiler now cuts out after 10 minutes with F22 and F25 codes and im not getting any air from the rads, boiler is silet when it runs but will stop and start.
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I’d be tempted to check, check and check again to be absolutely sure before looking elsewhere especially if it was okay before the pipework was moved.
Yes,
F22 which is derived from the developed pump head (power) and F25, too rapid temperature rise are both indicative of poor circulation.
I would, once again?, feel the two pipes above the garage door (not at the boiler) and see which one is the hottest after say 5 minute continuous boiler/burner operation.
With boiler shut down, shut the Mag.filter isolating valves, open the air vent and the drain on the bottom, remove the filter top and check for any sludge build up, this filter may contain a particulate filter as well as the magnet, clean out, refit the filter top but do not overtighten, shut the bottom drain and crack open the bottom isol valve until water issues from the air vent then shut it, open both isol valves.
Its possible that the pump impeller is partially blocked with sludge, shut down the boiler, shut the pump isol valves, unscrew the 4 studbolts and remove the motor complete with impeller, inspect impeller and prove clear by using a tie wrap to push through the impeller vanes, back flush by alternately opening each isol valve, replace the pump head, right way up if wiring length allows (won't affect pump orientation and downward pumping), reopen both isol valves fully.
Its a pity, but the UPS3 doesn't display the pump power (watts), if a smart meter is available the the power should show not < 30/35W at this setting, if only 20W then pumping practically nothing.
And the most unlikely scenario of all......this boiler has a internal circ pump and is a system boiler.
F22 which is derived from the developed pump head (power) and F25, too rapid temperature rise are both indicative of poor circulation.
I would, once again?, feel the two pipes above the garage door (not at the boiler) and see which one is the hottest after say 5 minute continuous boiler/burner operation.
With boiler shut down, shut the Mag.filter isolating valves, open the air vent and the drain on the bottom, remove the filter top and check for any sludge build up, this filter may contain a particulate filter as well as the magnet, clean out, refit the filter top but do not overtighten, shut the bottom drain and crack open the bottom isol valve until water issues from the air vent then shut it, open both isol valves.
Its possible that the pump impeller is partially blocked with sludge, shut down the boiler, shut the pump isol valves, unscrew the 4 studbolts and remove the motor complete with impeller, inspect impeller and prove clear by using a tie wrap to push through the impeller vanes, back flush by alternately opening each isol valve, replace the pump head, right way up if wiring length allows (won't affect pump orientation and downward pumping), reopen both isol valves fully.
Its a pity, but the UPS3 doesn't display the pump power (watts), if a smart meter is available the the power should show not < 30/35W at this setting, if only 20W then pumping practically nothing.
And the most unlikely scenario of all......this boiler has a internal circ pump and is a system boiler.
Plan to try and lift some floorboards today and track the route of the pipework.
How was the system cleaned/ flushed following cleansing with X800. If just drain-down and filled, good chance pump will fail. X800 is great cleanser but has to cleared from the system with multiple fills and drain downs or other methods so that it is removed from the system post chemical cleanse.
What is the temperature differential at the boiler and other fitments
To get to bottom of this problem, take temperature reading at each final ( both flow and return) as well as the boiler, check gas consumed etc and get the boiler serviced.
If the boiler combustion is poor, heat output is going to be poor. If the boiler is not getting enough gas, heat up is going to be poor.
Cannot see why this problem has dragged on so long. Start with a boiler manual stated service, which ensures the boiler is running correctly, then temperature checks which will indicate where the blockage or poor circulation is.
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This could be your eureka moment but just to persevere a bit more, this pipe which you say is returning to the boiler "R" must be doing so via the magnetic filter?
If so then remove this pipe from the lower filter connection and connect it directly into the boiler flow (F), connect the other vertical (NOW return) into the filter bottom and connect another bit of pipe from the filter top and connect into the boiler return (R).
If so then remove this pipe from the lower filter connection and connect it directly into the boiler flow (F), connect the other vertical (NOW return) into the filter bottom and connect another bit of pipe from the filter top and connect into the boiler return (R).
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Yes the return pipe is going via the filter, also marked on the floorboards next to the return pipe I found this.
The plumber is on holiday next week but fingers crossed this will sort the issue and come winter the boiler will heat up faster.
I'd just like to thank everyone for you help and advice its really appreciated.
Regards Ian.
The plumber is on holiday next week but fingers crossed this will sort the issue and come winter the boiler will heat up faster.
I'd just like to thank everyone for you help and advice its really appreciated.
Regards Ian.
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Shouldn’t that say 'return' then?
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