How best to apply silicone sealant

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Can anyone give me advice on how to achieve a more professional look to silicone seals, for example between a worktop and the wall. Mine always seem to look messy. I think maybe I'm applying too much and then have a problem smoothing it down.

One thing I am not sure of: is it better to drag the bead along the joint or should it be pushed along in front of the nozzle? Also, what is the best way of smoothing it out, or should it not be necessary?
 
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I'm no expert but I have found that dipping your finger in washing up liquid and then running it along the bead gives a good finish. So does wrapping a baby wipe round your finger!
 
to get a really nice finish, use masking tap either side of the joint you are sealing, apply the silicone, remove the excess with a wet finger, then remove the tape - usually gives a decent finish
 
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Can anyone give me advice on how to achieve a more professional look to silicone seals

Google for "Fugi kit" a set of silicone spreaders.
They work well with a bit of practice although not as cheap as a finger.

Frank
 
Forget those Fugi type tools - they're useless. I don't know one tiler that uses one.

I disagree.
The fact that a Tiler would never use one is irrelevant.
Someone who is doing this every day would build up the skill level so as not to need such aids.
I do tiling and use silicone sealer as DIY and need all the help I can get. The Fugi tool helps me, that's why I mentioned it.
Frank
 
in my opinion (as a DIYer), using a gunk gun is a relatively simple skill. Never push your gunk (silicon, decorators filler etc), always pull it. And judge how hard to squeeze the trigger by how much gunk is at the end of your nozzle (where is frankie howard when you need him?) and how big the gap you want to fill is !

Once filled, spit on your middle finger, and smooth the bead with that.. occasionally stopping to wipe excess gunk off with kitchen towel (or filling a gap if you underestimated !)
 
The Fugi kit is far from useless but does have its limitations.

For straight runs around a bath it works really well but the problem arises when you come to the bit behind the taps, sometimes there is not enough room around the back to use the Fugi tool. Also any joint that is not at an approx angle of 90 degrees is a no no for the Fugi, areas such as the sides of a basin for example. The Fugi is great at worktops where the runs are free from any obstructions and the angle is constant, the "bridging" tool gives an even run even over grout lines.

I have used both the method described by gcol and the Fugi and both are good in their own way.

Thanks for the tip about electricians tape, I have always used masking tape and sometimes it just doesn't want to stick :(
 
Thanks for all that guys. I think I've got plenty of suggestions to work on. I'll try the dragging, not applying too much, and wet finger technique and see how I go before investing in the Fugi kit.
 
Forget those Fugi type tools - they're useless. I don't know one tiler that uses one.

I disagree.
The fact that a Tiler would never use one is irrelevant.
Someone who is doing this every day would build up the skill level so as not to need such aids.
I do tiling and use silicone sealer as DIY and need all the help I can get. The Fugi tool helps me, that's why I mentioned it.
Frank
Can I be Frank, Frank?

The fact that a Tiler would never use one is irrelevant.
Balls. The very fact that a tiler will not use one is testament to the fact that they're pants! There's very little skill involved in using the tape method and as long as you follow the instructions, you can't help but end up with a perfect finish. There are tilers that don't use the tape method and are good enough with a ji.zz gun to do it without masking off (I'm not one of them) and they wouldn't dream of using a Fugi. But for what's involved in masking off, the consistent results far outweight any purchase of a Fugi or the risk involved in not masking.
 

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