How can I fill gaps in the middle of a laminate floor?

[Gary111]

I have an old laminate floor, there are several gaps where the planks have separated slightly.
One area is maybe 3/4 mm though.
I have tried tapping them back together from the edges but it didn't work.
Is there some kind of filler, or even fibreglass car filler that I can use?
At least it would seal and stick it together well and I can paint it.

Has anyone fixed this problem successfully?

Thanks

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

That small amount should tap back together, but you need to work out why they have spread in the first place. Is the gap along the length, or where the ends of boards meet? Installation instructions suggest a 10mm gap needs to be applied all round the edges of laminate, for expansion. When I did mine, I packed the 10mm gap with soft material, to still permit that expansion, yet apply a little pressure to keep them in place.

If you can find a means to access an edge, a suitable lever will make closing the gaps easy, then pack the edges - rather than filling gaps.

 

[Gary111]

Thanks one is the edge, I removed the kick boards under the kitchen units and hit it very hard several times it just wouldn't budge.
Maybe it got wet at some time and the joint got deformed?
I'm more at the stage of needing to fill the gaps.

 

[foxhole]

Probably got damp in the kitchen where it’s unsuitable for laminate and has sprung the joints.

 

[Gary111]

I doubt it's coming from.the floor it has membrane underneath the laminate

 

[foxhole]

I doubt it's coming from.the floor it has membrane underneath the laminate

From kitchen use not from floor.

 

[opps]

Assuming that you have a wood effect floor, you can get coloured flooring caulks, eg Unika

ColorSealant - Unika

ColorSealant Unika

www.unikainnovation.co.uk

Use a profiling tool to smooth it

https://www.toolstation.com/cramer-fugi-profiling-tool-set/p46602 (cheaper versions are available).

It will shrink back slightly though and if will be far from invisible.

You could use a clear 2 pack filler and mix in water based artist paints (into the filler) but it will be extremely time consuming and may develop hairline cracks.

Tetrion Professional Stonefil - White 900ML

Tetrosyl Limited is the largest manufacturer and supplier of car care products in Europe, extending its global reach to 76 countries.

www.tetconnect.com

I normally use it for hiding holes in tiles after a customer has removed fittings.

 

[Gary111]

Thanks mate, I'll try that

 

[opps]

Thanks mate, I'll try that

Not sure one which you will try, but I am trying to push towards the coloured caulk. As I said, it is far from perfect though.

The "right way" is to replace the whole floor but I appreciate that finances or time might not allow that at the moment.

Best of luck.

 

[Gary111]

I guess I can add paint to epoxy too and that would help it from separating even more?

 

[bluebaron]

Have you tried ”kicking” it.
Try to stamp and push your foot down and forward hard on it it force it together, use a “grippy” shoe like a trainer. Worked a treat on one on mine.

 

[opps]

I guess I can add paint to epoxy too and that would help it from separating even more?

What do you mean when you say epoxy? The two pack car fillers are not epoxy, they are polyester resin.

I am guessing that the opening of the gaps is down to water causing the flooring to expand. So long as it doesn't get wet again, it shouldn't get worse. The 2 pack filler is unlikely to "glue" things.

 

[Gary111]

Hi thanks epoxy is a well known glue, brand name araldite

 

[opps]

Hi thanks epoxy is a well known glue, brand name araldite

I really would recommend against using Araldite. Not only will it be extremely expensive, it will be messy. As you apply it and try to smooth it you will find that it splurges on to the face of the flooring.

You might be able to add waterbased paints to Araldite. I have never tried though.

 

[conny]

Araldite is waterproof so you won't be able to mix water based paints, (or anything else for that matter), with it.
Also, as opps says, it's very gloopy and even the tiniest bit is very hard to remove either when it is still soft or has hardened.
What you could try is to 'cramp' it back into position from the edge with sustained pressure rather than short sharp knocks.
On the edge nearest the wall, away from the gaps, you need to put some temporary packers in to prevent the floor moving. On the opposite side, (the area under the cupboards), screw down a long batten and place it about 2" away from the edge of the flooring. Make up 4 or 6 wooden wedges with the thick end the same size as your gap. Place two of the wedges opposing each other, (i.e. one thin end overlapping the other thin end). You now need to tap both thick ends at the same time so the wedges try to 'expand' to more than the 2" gap. Set the other sets of wedges up at the same time as you set the first one up and work from one set to the next, a bit at a time, slowly tapping a bit at a time. In effect what you are aiming to do is use the wedges as a sort of vice to gently squeeze the boards back together. Keep an eye on the centre of the floor to check it is not buckling up. Once the gaps are nearly closed apply your adhesive then continue closing the gap. Allow the adhesive to thoroughly dry before removing the batten, wedges and packing piece.
This is NOT a guaranteed method but it has worked for me in the past.