How do I remove the cover on a Triton T90i?
- Thread starter EamonK
- Start date
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small crosshead screws bottom and top of casing then pull casing off
no just the screws and case will come off leave knobs
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The Can Assembly - 8.5kW has four terminals at the top - I am guessing that this is for the two coils, with the two on the left for one heater and the two on the right for the other.
Current can flow through the two on the left but not through the two on the right, so if I am right about the coils, this must be why the water is just barely getting warm.
Does this sound right?
Current can flow through the two on the left but not through the two on the right, so if I am right about the coils, this must be why the water is just barely getting warm.
Does this sound right?
you got it in one if you have no continuity on that heating element its faulty new can needed.
no, 2 elements not coils. live live neutral neutral.
how are you measuring the current? you need an ammeter clamp or open jaw.
you need power off and test the resistance through the elements they should be similar, then check there is no short to earth, you will need an insulation tester for this, if one or the other is open circuit or shorted to earth then they are scrap.
proper test equipment should be a steal at about £400, or get an electrician.
how are you measuring the current? you need an ammeter clamp or open jaw.
you need power off and test the resistance through the elements they should be similar, then check there is no short to earth, you will need an insulation tester for this, if one or the other is open circuit or shorted to earth then they are scrap.
proper test equipment should be a steal at about £400, or get an electrician.
no point in checking for resistance hes stated that power is not going through the element, that tells you straight away that he has no continuity on that element.
as for an insulation tester waste of time 90% of electric shower faults can be checked with voltage, continuity, and ohms test.
as for an insulation tester waste of time 90% of electric shower faults can be checked with voltage, continuity, and ohms test.
with respect thats not what he said 
he has no way of determining a flow of current, what he alluding to is that he can measure voltage at 2 terminals, he wouldn't read voltage at the neutral side unless the neutral was disconnected further down the circuit because neutral is usually only slightly above earth potential.
an insulation test to earth is essential as it tests at twice mains voltage or higher.
a resistance test shows continuity and correct resistance, how else are you going to test functionality of an immersible heating element?
finally a load test confirms correct current measured in amps not volts.
bear in mind he's probably using a tester screw driver
he has no way of determining a flow of current, what he alluding to is that he can measure voltage at 2 terminals, he wouldn't read voltage at the neutral side unless the neutral was disconnected further down the circuit because neutral is usually only slightly above earth potential.
an insulation test to earth is essential as it tests at twice mains voltage or higher.
a resistance test shows continuity and correct resistance, how else are you going to test functionality of an immersible heating element?
finally a load test confirms correct current measured in amps not volts.
bear in mind he's probably using a tester screw driver
ok, I took a short cut - I used a resistance meter to see if any current could flow between the left pair of terminals compared to the right pair.
Testing the new CAN assembly that arrived today, I can see that it is the front pair of terminals that are connected to one element and the back pair that are connected to the other.
I didn't want to disconnect the terminals before I had the part, in case I could not get it back together - a shower that just barely heats is better than nothing.
On the CAN assembly that arrived, there is a sticker to ring Triton customer service before installing it - is this just them covering themselves, or is there something I should know?
Testing the new CAN assembly that arrived today, I can see that it is the front pair of terminals that are connected to one element and the back pair that are connected to the other.
I didn't want to disconnect the terminals before I had the part, in case I could not get it back together - a shower that just barely heats is better than nothing.
On the CAN assembly that arrived, there is a sticker to ring Triton customer service before installing it - is this just them covering themselves, or is there something I should know?
Spoke to Triton yesterday and they were very helpful.
the sticker is there for people installing new showers. But they did answer my concerns about how to fit the CAN assembly - it turned out to be very easy (30 minutes in total).
thanks for all your help.
the sticker is there for people installing new showers. But they did answer my concerns about how to fit the CAN assembly - it turned out to be very easy (30 minutes in total).
thanks for all your help.
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