How do you guys fix devices to dryline & general stud wa

[kilo_4que]

Hi guys, I have several devices and control boxes which need fixing to drylined walls, was wondering what you guys out there use to fix them securely. For example I have my shutter control switch, shutter control box and severeal sensors that need fixing securely. Normally on standard brick walls you just drill straight through, insert plugs and screw in to a tight fix. With dryline of course you cant do this, hence what would you guys recommend. Bare in mind that these device dont allow for large butterfly style screw to be used as they have limited space inside them anyway.

thanks

 

[sparkyspike]

For a secure fix I would fix a wooden noggin between the studs behind the drywall. This isn't always easy. For a lighter fix I use metal Super-screws (helical drywall screws). Another possibility, if they are the right size, is to use fast-fix boxes used for socket outlets and fix your units to them using 3.5mm plate screws.

 

[Taylortwocities]

These should do it. You'd need to be sure there's space behind the dryliner or drill thru the brick/blockwork behind

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/84513/Fixings/Cavity-Fixings/Mungo-Easi-Driver-Metal-32mm-Pack-of-100

 

[sparkyspike]

http://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/webbig/55036.jpg

 

[RF Lighting]

Just to clear up any confusion, do you mean a plasterboard stud partition wall, or a dot and dab type wall where the plasterboard is stuck to the blockwork with a bit of a gap between?

 

[kilo_4que]

RF, its a plasterboard stud partition. For the dot and dab I have several solutions as I just drill through to the blockwork.

With this stud partition guys, there is too much of a gap for them threaded screws you guys have linked.

I was however wondering whether something like this would work?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/81956...cher-Plasterboard-Plug-LDF-4mm-8ga-Pack-of-10

Bare in mind by secure i dont mean pulling force. I mean the device or object for that matter is secured to the wall within reason for the purpose of the device. For example the shutter toggle switch needs to be secured to the stud wall enough for it not to simply fall off after several uses.

I dont know if im making myself clear as I seem rather broad to myself aswell in explanation.

To simplify it, say you have a half inch piece of plasterboard, what is the best fixing to use in order to fix something to the plasterboard. Note that the devices and objects I refer to weigh next to nothing so weight is not a factor

 

[plugwash]

I would think that plasterboard plugs like those you linked at screwfix would be fine.

 

[Softus]

If the drywall is almost on top of masonry, then it isn't a cavity wall, but I only ever use this type of cavity wall fixing:

They're expensive, but there's a reason for that.

 

[kilo_4que]

Softus the lower half of my premises have been properly dryline i.e. aluminium studs held up by upper and lower tracks to which the plasterboard is fixed to. The gap from the back of the plasterboard to the masonry (where ever masonry exists bare naked) is very big, at least a coupleo f inches

plugwash, i was thinking that also but got a little concerned when no one mentioned them to me thinking I may be taking the task a little too lightly

 

[aptsys]

I generally use the ones that Taylortwocities linked to. Heavier items call for the types that Softus linked to, but I would think they're overkill for your purpose, and they are generally more difficult to get hold of if you want smaller than an M4 bolt.

 

[Softus]

The alloy screw-in ones are utterly hopeless, because they rely on the integrity of the plasterboard for strength. As soon as someone screws them too tight, or off-line, or the plasterboard crumbles a bit, or leans on the item you've fixed, you've lost it.

The brolly type (eg. Interset) need merely an accurate hole, which is drilled in a couple of seconds, are a permanent fixing, have a removeable screw (unlike spring toggles, for example), and are VERY strong. They work brilliantly in ceilings too, where the alloy ones are even more likely to pull out.

If you buy a box of them they're a lot cheaper, although still more than most other types, but you get what you pay for.

 

[aptsys]

I disagree with your comment that they are hopeless. They may be unsuitable for your purposes, but for fixing the types of controls the OP has, they're ideal. I've certainly never had any issues with anything coming off the wall/ceiling.

 

[Softus]

I disagree with your comment that they're not hopeless.

They fail any criterion that you could set for a wall plug, unless one of your criteria is that it must endow you with a sense of foreboding at the uncertainty of the day that it will pull out of the plasterboard.

 

[aptsys]

How is a control switch or sensor going to fall off the wall if held in with several Easi-Driver Fixings holding in in place? I certainly wouldn't live in fear that I would find my sensor on the floor one day because they had failed You'd need to be trying to rip it off the wall for any kind of movement unless you have very crumbly plaster, or you overtightened them. Once you have the other screws in, any load should be spread well enough for a very secure fixing, unless you're trying to hang a TV or radiator...

 

[sparkyspike]

With this stud partition there is too much of a gap for them threaded screws you guys have linked.

You've lost me here...