How do you take off this float valve in the loft cold water tank?

[spader]

I have got a new float valve type 2 from Srewfix to replace this old one leaking. But it looks different from any float valves I have seen.
I couldn't see any bolts to undo the valve from inside of the tank. Would it be just matter of turning the whole valve round to take off from the tank?
If the fittings through the tank are exactly same size, then I would just leave them and replace the valve only, because it would be easier.
Not sure if they are the same size fittings. Thanks.

 

[muggles]

Need to turn the water off, undo the compression joint on the elbow, unscrew the elbow from the tail of the float valve, then undo the backnut which is holding it in place. Refitting is the reverse of removal, although you'll need some PTFE for the thread

 

[spader]

Need to turn the water off, undo the compression joint on the elbow, unscrew the elbow from the tail of the float valve, then undo the backnut which is holding it in place. Refitting is the reverse of removal, although you'll need some PTFE for the thread

So it must be undone from the back of the tank where the elbow connects the valve? Most of the Youtube demonstrations were undoing them from the inside of the tank, taking off just the valve part, leaving the fittings on the tank, and just attaching the new valve on the old fittings. I was looking to do the same way, but this valve has no bolt at the front. It must be some rare old valve? Thanks for the info.

 

[CBW]

It must be some rare old valve? Thanks for the info.

Not rare as such, part 1 float valve, you have a part 2, likely you’ve seen these swapped on YT. If there’s no service/isolation valve I would take the opportunity as it’s a requirement under the water regulations

 

[spader]

Not rare as such, part 1 float valve, you have a part 2. If there’s no service/isolation valve I would take the opportunity as it’s a requirement under the water regulations

Yup I am going to fit the Lever Valve replacing the old gate isolation valve which is also intermittently non working.

 

[robinbanks]

So it must be undone from the back of the tank where the elbow connects the valve?

Undo 1, pull down 2, undo 3, undo 4, note need new PTFE at 5 for refitting

 

[spader]

View attachment 288149
Undo 1, pull down 2, undo 3, undo 4, note need new PTFE at 5 for refitting

When 4 is undone, the whole valve will come off from the tank. Why would you undo 1 and pull down 2?
2 is the main rising pipe which goes downstairs to the incoming main pipe. It cannot be pulled down.

Sorry but I am trying to understand your logic here.

 

[spader]

Not rare as such, part 1 float valve, you have a part 2, likely you’ve seen these swapped on YT. If there’s no service/isolation valve I would take the opportunity as it’s a requirement under the water regulations

Yes, it looks definitley the part 1 valve. But it doesn't have a bolt to turn it out off the fitting from inside of the tank.

Part 1 HP Portsmouth Pattern Float Valve

Product Code: 10/0391 Specification Designed with interchangeable parts to make replacement easy 1/2" to 1" sizes are manufactured in Brass, larger sizes are in Bronze Removable seats in nylon (1/2" and 3/4") Choice of plastic or brass backnuts and plastic or brass piston on 1/2" size Working...

www.vipvalvesonline.com

 

[Madrab]

2 is the main rising pipe which goes downstairs to the incoming main pipe. It cannot be pulled down.

The rising main pipe just needs pulled down about 20mm to get the pipe to clear the female elbow, so the elbow can then be undone off the valve. If the pipe won't move at all then loosening the locknut to the valve may give enough play for it to be lifted off. All else fails then the cistern will need emptied enough so it can be raised a little. The elbow will not undo without that pipe being clear out the fitting.

 

[spader]

The rising main pipe just needs pulled down about 20mm to get the pipe to clear the female elbow, so the elbow can then be undone off the valve. If the pipe won't move at all then loosening the locknut to the valve may give enough play for it to be lifted off. All else fails then the cistern will need emptied enough so it can be raised a little. The elbow will not undo without that pipe being clear out the fitting.

Can the valve be taken out from inside the tank? Does it not connect to the fitting by thread? Is the whole valve including the fitting one piece?
Or just undo 4 from 5 leaving 1 2 3?

 

[Lower]

When 4 is undone, the whole valve will come off from the tank. Why would you undo 1 and pull down 2?
2 is the main rising pipe which goes downstairs to the incoming main pipe. It cannot be pulled down.

Sorry but I am trying to understand your logic here.

You need to disconnect the feed pipe so that you can rotate the elbow to disconnect it from the ball valve.

 

[spader]

You need to disconnect the feed pipe so that you can rotate the elbow to disconnect it from the ball valve.

OK thanks.

 

[Madrab]

Can the valve be taken out from inside the tank? Does it not connect to the fitting by thread? Is the whole valve including the fitting one piece?

The whole ball valve (minus the arm/ball) is one piece and needs the outside backnut taken off and then the valve pulls out of the hole inwards. You can't take the backnut off before the elbow, you can't take the elbow off before the supply pipe ..... etc

 

[spader]

The whole ball valve (minus the arm/ball) is one piece and needs the outside backnut taken off and then the valve pulls out of the hole inwards. You can't take the backnut off before the elbow, you can't take the elbow off before the supply pipe ..... etc

I see. Not a good design of the valve for replacement I feel.
Thanks Rab.

 

[fixitflav]

So it must be undone from the back of the tank where the elbow connects the valve? Most of the Youtube demonstrations were undoing them from the inside of the tank, taking off just the valve part, leaving the fittings on the tank, and just attaching the new valve on the old fittings. I was looking to do the same way, but this valve has no bolt at the front. It must be some rare old valve? Thanks for the info.

The existing valve has a male threaded 1/2" BSP tail. This takes the backnut and the pipe connection. More common to see a tap connector screwed straight on, rather than an elbow like yours, but in any case you need to take off everything outside to remove the valve.
When you've got it off, why not dismantle it and replace the rubber washer, and give things a smear of silicone grease? It should be good then for 20-odd years!