How long should I get out of a chainsaw chain?

[MisterBoy]

I have the Stihl MSA 200 which runs a lightweight 1/4 PM3 chain. I've been very happy with it even cutting pretty big stuff (10-12") but recently it is really struggling. Even after I sharpened the chain it was not cutting well - cut wood was steaming and the chain hot which I think is a tell-tale sign it's not cutting properly. I have one tree that it got part way through and just won't cut - it just spins and does nothing.

It appears to be oiling OK so I wonder could the chain just be worn out/damaged? I haven't got many hours on it and only sharpened 2-3 times which seems like not a lot of use.

How long should I get on one of these chains and are there any obvious ways to tell it can't be sharpened? How do you know a chain is at end-of-life?

 

[Stivino]

It depends what you are doing with it, what wood you are cutting, where you are cutting, when you are cutting. Hit a nail in the wood or, an unseen stone under a log when you are cutting and you chain will last two minutes.
Your question is an enigma almost like, how long is a piece of string.

 

[MisterBoy]

It depends what you are doing with it, what wood you are cutting, where you are cutting, when you are cutting. Hit a nail in the wood or, an unseen stone under a log when you are cutting and you chain will last two minutes.
Your question is an enigma almost like, how long is a piece of string.

Hence my question how can I tell if it's dead? What am I looking for to know I have sharpened it as many times as is sensible, or that the chain is too damaged to re-sharpen? How would a pro decide when to toss their chain rather than sharpen it?

 

[Diver Fred]

How do you sharpen the chain? On the saw or do take the chain off and use a sharpening grinder? If you sharpen the chain on the saw do you make sure the filings are clear of the blade slot? Have you
Is the cutter top plate below or level with the depth gauge?
Is the chain guide slot in the blade clear?
You have filled the oil tank? Oil will keep the chain cool and running freely.
Is the chain too tight? Or too slack? When the chain is pulled away from the blade at the mid point it should just come away about half the depth of the Drive link.

The blade is worn out when the cutter top plate is down to about a quarter of its original length or you cannot see the chain service markings.

Edit - Pages 63 & 64 of user manual are a good reference.

 

[Stivino]

Can you post a good close up picture of it?

 

[MisterBoy]

Is the chain too tight? Or too slack? When the chain is pulled away from the blade at the mid point it should just come away about half the depth of the Drive link.

Side issue but I have been finding it hard to get the right tension. The MSA200 is toolless with a little knob you twist but it gets too tight to turn to get quite the right tension. I can do it by removing the cover so my tension is good and yes I know about making sure it has oil.

I've been sharpening using the basic Stihl file that looks a bit like this, that works for 3/8 and 1/4 chains. Never had an issue before getting that kind of "cat-claw" sticky sharpness, just give it a quick once over after using and it cuts great -until now.

I'll see if I can get a photo up close when I'm in the workshop.

 

[scbk]

A chainsaw chain is worn out when you've ran out of tooth to sharpen!

Bare in mind you also need to file down the depth gauges

 

[blup]

That's a low kickback chain, replace it with a more aggressive chain and it should cut better and last longer.

Blup

 

[lostinthelight]

That's a low kickback chain, replace it with a more aggressive chain and it should cut better and last longer.

Blup

More aggressive chain may shorten battery life

 

[MisterBoy]

That's a low kickback chain, replace it with a more aggressive chain and it should cut better and last longer.

Blup

It has worked well previously - I'm not trying to be a logger mostly 3-4" stuff. I considered that when I bought it but decided to stick with the Stihl recommendation, though thanks for suggesting it.

I still need to inspect closely and get a photo but I wonder if @scbk is onto something mentioning depth gauges. I cheaped out on the basic round file when I got my saw not knowing much about it, then never thought about it again.

 

[Munroast]

Every time you sharpen it you reduce the depth of the rake (notice how the cutting tooth is angled) you have to file a little of the Depth Gauge (raker).

How deep this should be is a mine field. Some manufacturers sate 25 thou, which to my mind is hopeless. I have mine set to 60 to 80 thou. and many will argue that this is dangerous as it can cause kick back. And chain saws are very very dangerous so get specialist advice from an expert (which I am not)

Many firewood boys would never measure the depth, when they are not getting a decent size chip in the sawdust they file a bit more off, but I guess the difficulty with this is getting the experiance to know what is the right size sawdust chippings. (i use the word sawdust but the last thing you want is sawdust, it should be chippings)

https://www.educatedclimber.com/how-saw-chain-works/

 

[Diver Fred]

Referring to page 63 in the manual as described above you can get a 'Filing' gauge from the saw dealer that corrects the hight of the depth gauge. I recommend that you get one and a good quality flat file - it certainly improves the way the chain cuts.

 

[Munroast]

@MisterBoy I was cutting some Beech and Oak today and this is the chippings that the chainsaw was producing, notice how it is nothing like sawdust.