How much can I take off......

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each side of a hollow internal door?
I have an internal door opening of 660mm but the closest width new door I can find is 686mm meaning I need to remove a combined total of maybe 28/29mm Is this possible to take enough off each side but still keep the door integrity?
Also need to take 60mm off the height.
 
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each side of a hollow internal door?
I have an internal door opening of 660mm but the closest width new door I can find is 686mm meaning I need to remove a combined total of maybe 28/29mm Is this possible to take enough off each side but still keep the door integrity?
Also need to take 60mm off the height.

All door supplier list the amount by which their doors can be trimmed down, 13mm each side doesn't seem unreasonable, but do check with the manufactures online spec..
 
If you need to.
Cut hinge side and bottom. You can buy off the shelf new wood and glue In between face panels and lay down and put weights on or clamp.

Take too long much off you will have no wood at the edge so glue new bit in
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Spent nearly 3 hours in B&Q trying to source a door and discussing building our own using T&G all to no avail. The hollow doors had 20mm stiles so couldn't trim them down without making them very weak, (no depth for hinges if trimmed equally on both sides to keep the 'pattern'). discussed making a 'yard gate' affair using T&G but eventually discarded that one for looks and cost. Then thought about making our own frame and covering with hardboard and adding some moulding trim to take away the plainness, but widest hardboard was only 610mm x 1600 long. Getting frustrated so decided to forget about it till spring. Driving home I needed a pee so swung into Homebase on another estate. My wife takes a wander round and finds a proper wood pine door which she likes. Quick use of the tape measure and we decided we can make it fit without taking too much off each side and weakening it or making it look odd. Think we may tackle it next year, (read tomorrow), as we are both a bit knackered. LOL
 
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I've bought doors off net that are made to measure. Also finished and ready to fit. That's another option. Doors were £75 plus delivery
 
Door was £45 plus hinges, handles and ball catch. Total cost just over £60 and fitted into car no problem. If I don't drink too much tonight I may make a start on it tomorrow.
 
We fitted clear pine solid doors all through our house, had some odd sizes upstairs but managed to get a matching set of 8.

None of the casings were square, was a right ballache of a weekend!.
 
We fitted clear pine solid doors all through our house, had some odd sizes upstairs but managed to get a matching set of 8.

None of the casings were square, was a right ballache of a weekend!.

Tell me about it! The plan was to have it opening into the utility room as there is a toilet door which opens out into the small hall next to the utility room. So we marked the door up, cut it to size, (with a bit of allowance in case we were slightly out with the measurements), and when I came to stand it in the opening one of them was cock-eyed! Checked both sets of measurements and it should have fitted in snugly leaving me a touch extra to slightly plane down to stop binding. My wife suggested trying it in the frame from the hall side, which I thought pointless as it was the same frame. However, I did as she asked and lo and behold it fitted perfectly. I then realised this was the side we took the measurements from so took some from the opposite side, (inside the utility room), and the frame tapered in by up to 7 mm in some places. Re-hanging my plumb line against the frame on this side showed it to have a lean of 9mm at the top. On the hall side it was perfectly square, perfectly vertical and the same width all the way down the front face. So the door now opens into the small hall. My wife is just giving it a coat of primer at the moment but in future I will check both sides of the frame before deciding which side is true or out.
 
Ours was an ex council house at some point.

We re-hung the new doors on the opposite side in most rooms. One door per frame at a time.

Ended up power planing the doors upstairs for final fit, was sick of carrying them up and down stairs!.
 
The cheap hollow door only allow a few mm off each side, I have trimmed 20mm off with a saw which takes off the entire door edge timber which then needs the hardboard planing off and refitted to door , a bit of a faff but can be done.
 

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