How should I secure a door liner?

[danr86]

I'm replacing a downstairs internal wall and including a door and have got a couple of questions.

Should I secure a stud to the brickwork and then the liner to the stud (picture 3) or just fix the liner straight to the brickwork (pic 2)? I'm going to use shims to pack out either the liner or the stud as the brickwork isn't great.

The floor slopes so should I make sure the liner is perfectly true by making one side shorter than the other to maintain 90 degrees at the top on both sides?

Thanks in advance

Untitled

• danr86
• 31 Mar 2012
• 1

Untitled

• danr86
• 31 Mar 2012
• 1

Untitled

• danr86
• 31 Mar 2012
• 1

 

[xr4x4]

I assume your gonna be fixing stud work above the door?

If thats the case, it would be easier to fix the liner to the wall and fit the door liner to that. This will also help with fixing the stud work.

 

[JohnD]

you can also inject expanding foam (preferably fireproof) to fill the irregular gap with the blockwork (brush off dust, and moisten the blocks first). As well as stopping draught and noise penetration, and improving the smoke and fire barrier, it will stick the lining firmly into position and prevent it loosening or rattling when slammed.

You can actually stick linings into position just with foam, but as you have to shim and wedge them first, IMO you might as well put the screws in too.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Fix to the brick work, with screws & wedges, then use foam filler around the edge.

Make sure the top is level and both sides.

Take you time in fitting this as it will be a lot harder to fit the door in a wonky frame.

Andy

 

[danr86]

I assume your gonna be fixing stud work above the door?

That's right.

If thats the case, it would be easier to fix the liner to the wall and fit the door liner to that.

Did you mean stud to the wall and fit the door liner to that?

Thanks

 

[HERTS P&D]

You will need to screw the door lining in place making sure it is level before using foam filler, as the foam will push the frame out of level.

Andy

 

[handyman77]

Build the studwork first. Then fit the liner. Then brace it and fill the gaps with the foam as directed.

 

[noseall]

First remove enough ceiling to be able to fix noggins between the floor joists to facilitate the stud wall head plate.

Fix the header.

Fix the two side (end) studs plumb down from the header. Make sure the frame stud is true/plumb. Use a nice straight piece for this.

If the casing is a standard 30" fella, leave a 32" gap then fix the sole plate.

Fix your straightest upright as the other upright for the casing.

Fill in.

Fix mid-span noggins making sure that you keep the frame stud upright/true.

Fix the hinge side of the casing to the true upright.

Use packers and fix the latch side of the casing levelling the head first.

Once the door casing is fixed fit the header stud allowing say, 20mm for adjustment just in case you may need to lift the casing.

P.S. before assembling the casing, always check there are no knots interfering with the latch and hinge cut outs. Hinges will be 6" from the top and 9" up from the bottom. The latch will be in the door centre.

 

[TicklyT]

Unless the verticals of the liner are set plumb in all directions, the door will always tend to swing open or closed, depending on the direction of the error.

It is possible to adjust the hinge alignment later, but easier if you can get it plumb in the first place