Moving and blocking up a door

[muh3]

Hello,

I'm currently trying to move an existing door in my bedroom and have a few questions.

The wall is in the second floor, clicker blocks build on floor boards over joists. The wall is not supporting anything. The blocks are 3 inch. I will be fitting 3 inch lightweight blocks.

Question 1
Do i need to tooth the existing block work out or can i use "Galvanised Safety End Frame Cramp 150 x 50mm" plugged and screwed to the existing block work. The existing block work will be 90 degree to the new block work and will end against a door liner.

Question 2
The distance from new door liner to the old block work is about 76cm, is it ok to have them staggered 44 and 32 and next 32 and 44

Above the door liner will be a lintel, this is not a problem.

I have attached some pictures, i hope this all makes sense.

Thank you

 

[^woody^]

You're normally better off putting this back in timber stud work secured top bottom and sides, as blocks always tend to end up lossening and the wall wobbling.

If you are dead set on using blocks, fix a timber along the floor and a vertical timber
up the side of the frame and use fishtail ties to ties the blocks in at both ends every 2 course

 

[muh3]

Hi woody, I'm set on blocks, as you might see in one of the pictures, they are already there.

Thank you for the idea with the timber. This will eliminate any future wall wobble.

I'm i ok to have the blocks not perfectly staggered?

 

[^woody^]

You need to 1/2 bond them as much as you can, but if not, then change every third course so that the same bond does not continue up the wall.

 

[muh3]

Thank you