How tight in the corner is TOO tight for a door?

[pb2012]

Hi all,

Due to re-configuring a staircase, we'll need to move a door over approx 220mm. The result is that it will have about 50-60mm space from the perpendicular wall that it encroaches on (max). This is enough for the frame/hinges, and a pretty thin strip of architrave down that side.

Any experience with how this looks and functions? Would it look wrong and odd?

For some context, the door will be at the end of a narrow'ish hallway. Stairs start winding up to it's left, the perpendicular hallway wall will be butt up against its right.


The only other solution would be an extra step in the straight run of stairs, and move the master bedroom wall (brick supporting) back about 200mm.

 

[pb2012]

This is based on a 680mm door by the way. It could have maybe 30mm shaved off the width to gain a little more.

 

[pb2012]

I've just been looking at 626mm wide doors, of which there is quite a bit of choice. Any thoughts on a door that width for a master bedroom in terms of look/function?

There will be one other door on the same stretch of hall with is 720mm wide.

 

[Notch7]

Hi all,

Due to re-configuring a staircase, we'll need to move a door over approx 220mm. The result is that it will have about 50-60mm space from the perpendicular wall that it encroaches on (max). This is enough for the frame/hinges, and a pretty thin strip of architrave down that side.

Any experience with how this looks and functions? Would it look wrong and odd?

For some context, the door will be at the end of a narrow'ish hallway. Stairs start winding up to it's left, the perpendicular hallway wall will be butt up against its right.


The only other solution would be an extra step in the straight run of stairs, and move the master bedroom wall (brick supporting) back about 200mm.

It looks best if you can pack the liner off the wall to keep a full size architrave on the wall side.

If you cant then trim the architave down and do a 45 deg cut on the reduced arch and a 45 with a flat on the head arch.

Absolte min dist is liner thickness, say 30mm.

A 626mm is doable, if you arent 25 stone! I dont know if any regs apply.....

 

[pb2012]

It looks best if you can pack the liner off the wall to keep a full size architrave on the wall side.

If you cant then trim the architave down and do a 45 deg cut on the reduced arch and a 45 with a flat on the head arch.

Absolte min dist is liner thickness, say 30mm.

A 626mm is doable, if you arent 25 stone! I dont know if any regs apply.....

Thanks for that. The architrave trim with flat on the head arch should be ok if that's how it has to be.

I think we probably really need to stick with the standard 686mm door (could maybe trim 10-15mm of each side) so I'm hoping some clever jiggery-pokery with the bottom stairs winder can be done to claw back a few extra cm. obviously don't want to compromise the usability of the stairs themselves though, but it should be possible to make some gains on the main winder treads.

Basic measurement mess-ups can really wreak havoc on a build...

 

[John D v2.0]

We have a door on the wall, only the lining thickness is off the wall and we just have a quadrant beading in place of the architrave. Looks fine.
The only issue when replacing it all was getting the architrave to all match up at the top and bottom, i used a square block to end the skirting and drop the beading onto to avoid having to scribe it or something.
The door position was set in the 20s when the house was built

 

[John D v2.0]

Here are the photos as described above

 

[Tigercubrider]

Ditto
My downstairs toilet door is hinged right in the corner with a cut down architrave
My bedroom door has architrave but no "extra" wall as it opens into the room with a small square bit of floor forming the door sweep area before opening into the main room.
Just don't choose a massive handle or it will take chunks out of the wall

 

[pb2012]

Here are the photos as described above
View attachment 145585 View attachment 145586

Thanks John, the pictures are massively helpful. Appreciated! The beading down the lining and the block joint is a pretty neat solution.

If anyone else has similar images then feel free to post them.

 

[cdbe]

I have 2 610 doors - into a utility "corridor" and then into a wc at the end, both right against the walls with cut down architrave to cover the lining. I also have biggish handles (and stops to prevent said handles hitting the walls) so they don't even fully open. They're used on a daily basis without any issues or any contortionism! I do have a section of removable door stop so I can get the washer and dryer in and out.

 

[Ian H]

I put a door really close to stairs like this: