How to fit kitchen units starting in non-square corner

[vince366]

Hi,

I'm just about to start fitting a new L-shaped kitchen but the corner of the room I'm starting in is not square (greater than 90 degrees).

I know that if I get the first corner unit wrong it will impact the entire kitchen so I'm seeking confirmation that my plan is correct for this situation.

The included image shows the layout where the red lines indicate the walls (over-exaggerated)

As shown I'm planning to scribe the corner units to the wall such that the 2 farthest end units in each direction sit to the walls without any alterations.

Is this the correct solution, and are there any implications?
Are there alternative methods?

Thanks in advance,
Vince.

 

[JohnD]

how big is the gap?

are you using 600mm worktop?

How deep are the units?

Are you using a Corner unit? what size is it?

 

[vince366]

hi John,

I don't have any measurements or other details to hand, but can post this information later tonight.

In the mean time could you tell me what gap size you would consider to be too much?

If it turns out that the gap is too large, then what would you recommend instead?

Cheers,
Vince,

 

[JohnD]

corner cabinet carcases are made extra-small to take up out-of-square corners.

Other cabinets (except Ikea) are made a bit less deep than work surfaces to allow a bit of room.

So I was wondering if the gap you have can be taken up by the slack allowed for.

In my kitchen I had to cut the worktop for out-of-square, and put the corner unit in almost last, it was short enough to line the other cabs up so the doors looked OK. The cabs next to the corner cab do not have to line up square as long as the doors match.

 

[vince366]

I've not yet been able to obtain the measurements, but another solution was suggested which I will explain:

This solution simply fits the units in line with both walls using the offset filler in the corner unit as a pivot point - see diagram below:




This moves the problem to the worktop. I've cut worktops in the past using a jig, and these ensure the join is 90-degrees. I'm presuming that the jig can be re-positioned and clamped instead of using all the pegs to create an angled join greater than 90-degrees.

Can someone who has experience cutting worktops confirm this?


On a side note, this must be one of the most fundamental problems to overcome when fitting a kitchen, yet I'm having real difficulty finding any information or guidelines for overcoming this.

Does anyone know of any good resources (preferably online) that discuss this?

Cheers<
Vince.

 

[CortinaV8]

Are the walls really that out of line, is it exaggerated in the diagram?

Is building the wall out in the area of the room not a possibility? I think you are going to end up with the worktop issues using the method you suggest.

 

[vince366]

Hi CortinaV8,

The diagrams are exaggerated to make it easier to visualize, so the gaps are not so bad in reality. However I want to fully understand this problem and all the possible solutions before I begin the installation.

Regarding the walls - building them out is not an option.

I presume you're referring to the 2nd method when you say I'll have worktop issues, so can you elaborate on what you mean?
Are you saying that it's not possible to change the angle of the routed join?

Cheers,
Vince.

 

[CortinaV8]

It is possible to create the join at any angle, however the type of jigs I've borrowed in the past only have pre-set angles, i'm sure it can be done however I wouldn't suggest trying it on your first attempt.

I came accross the same problem as you in my kitchen, we cut the worktop in the corner in order to make it fit, however we still ended up with the units not flush to the wall on the run show in the photo, the end panel covered most of this and a bit of beading sorted the small gap that was left.

I found the main issue was when I did the floor, it made the units look well off, I ended up spacing out the kickboard so they followed the lines of the tiles.