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How to lay bowed used hardwood floor?

Discussion in 'Floors, Stairs and Lofts' started by WilliamFBradley, 27 Jun 2014.

  1. WilliamFBradley

    WilliamFBradley

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    Hi
    My Dad and I pulled up some birch? maple? used flooring t & g.
    How do I get it ready to re-lay, since there seems to be some bowing in the longest pieces (5-7feet lengths), do we miter saw it into smaller lengths? It will go onto a plywood subfloor.

    How do we clean off the old plastic wood they tried to fill gaps with? Make a steel scraper to the same t&g profile? This wood seems to be sanded about 1/16th less than original, very curious to know why it would have gaps afterwards. Could the gaps have appeared before sanding? (The wowing might explain that I guess). They had used square-cut nails, which seem to split the wood here and there. My Dad is getting a pressurized DeWalt nailer which shoots staples.
    Please reply with as much general info for the overall procedure of installation as well as how to deal with that bowing.
    Cheers and thanks guys/gals
    Tanya
     
  2. ree

    ree

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    What is the ply subfloor fixed to?

    Cramping the bowed pieces into place with wedges will work but the cramps will have to be constantly re-fixed and shortened.

    Spread the bowed pieces about the floor - keep them apart.

    A sharp wood chisel will remove any stuck debris. Tedious work.

    You might do well to hand screw every so many courses.

    To get a clean start its sometimes best to run the boards through a belt sander before laying.

    Snapped chalk lines must be established as control lines.
     
  3. WilliamFBradley

    WilliamFBradley

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    Hi
    Gee, that was quick.

    Plywood is over, I am told, 1x6 planks laid diagonally over 2x10 joists, 12" apart.

    Thanks again, keep us posted if you have any more thoughts on this.

    Cheers!
    Tanya
     
  4. ree

    ree

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    Your sub-floor will be rough sawn boards, and you will probably have to lay 15pound roofing felt paper over the diagonal boards.Screw down any shaky boards.

    When you nail, take care to avoid the probable gaps in the sub-floorboards.

    If you are in "cold Canada" then the crawl space should be insulated and vented to local Code or condensation difficulties can arise.

    I'm presuming the sub-floor is level both ways? And is firmly fixed with no movement?

    I dont understand the T&G "gaps" you refer to?

    Remove all baseboards and consider how you will finish at door thresholds? Leave a 1/4" expansion gap at all edges.
    Heating Registers might have to be slightly altered.
     
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