How To Remove Remaining Paint From A Shower Door Frame?

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I am going to repaint the door of a shower cubicle.

A lot of the existing finish has peeled from the frame. I am wondering what the easiest method would be to remove what is left of the existing paint?

Here are a couple of photos of the frame:


Not sure but my guess is that the frame is aluminium.
 
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More important is what is the paint on there that is peeling , is it oil or water based?

Generally painting a shower door is a bad idea as the problem you have now will come back
 
I do not know if the existing paint is oil or water based. Sorry about that.

I intend to paint the frame with Hammerite Direct To Rust Metal Paint. I will be happy if this finish functions for the next five years. I painted a metal patio table and chairs with this a few years back, and it has proved a durable finish despite the items being outside and exposed throughout the year.
 
You need to scrape off as much old paint as you can with a scraper, then sand down thoroughly.

You cannot use regular Hammerite Direct to Rust on the bare aluminium.

You should use a special metals primer all over the unpainted bits first.

Then, once dry, you can apply the Hammerite Direct To Rust.

Make sure the special metals primer IS thoroughly dry, as the Hammerite will pull the primer off otherwise.

If you don't use the primer, the paint may just slide about and not stick.
 
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As above, removing the paint is (in part) dependant on the type of paint currently on the door.

Aluminium needs special etching primer, eg.

https://www.directcarparts.co.uk/workshop-c1/autotek-paint-c89/etch-primer-spray-paint-500ml-p3300

If the remaining paint is the factory finish it may be a powdercoat finish. A heat gun will remove the paint but is likely to damage any silicone seals and could crack the glass.

Sanding might be the safest option. You will need to be particularly methodical when removing the silicone beading where the frame meets the tiles. I would use a very sharp chisel and then silicone remover. I would remove any silicone remover gunk with meths or isopropyl alcohol. Then wire wool all of the metal and wash again with isopropyl alcohol and spray shortly after (once the alcohol has evaporated). Aluminium starts to oxidise very quickly so don't leave it too long.

After priming you can use top coats of your choice.

You may need to wait a few days before you can re-silicone the tiles. The length depends on the paint used. Cellulose will cure faster than waterbased paints which in turn will cure much faster than oil based paints.
 
Thank you for the great advice.

I used wire wool to prepare the surface. Then metal primer on the bare patches. And a couple of coats of the Hammerite Direct To Rust Metal Paint to finish.
 
The result:

SD_painted.jpg
 

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