How to remove the front from a Triton Inscriptions shower?!

[RDD]

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone could give me some advise on how I'd go about removing the front cover from this shower?

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• RDD
• 2 May 2013
• 1

It's turned faulty (works but only cold to very mild water comes out - thinking element/heating can) so I want to have a quick look inside to see what's what, unfortunately my main problem is getting the front off!

I've removed two visible screws from the top of the case and one from the bottom, unfortunately the front remains rock solid, I've tried pulling off the knobs, again solid and I've even popped off the centres of the knobs only to find they're screwed on from the back.

So any ideas would be much appreciated, if it's a case of pulling harder no problem, but until someone says it's OK I don't want to for fear of ripping the thing off the wall.

Many thanks in advance for any help

 

[seco services]

Once you have removed the 2 top screws and 1 bottom screw the cover should just pull foreward.

Don't worry about the dials they are part of the cover.
Once cover released unclip the cable connector to the on/off button.

The dials just fit on to splines on the controls.
Just put the dials in a position you'll remember before removing cover, ie both dials vertical and they'll be ok when cover refitted.

 

[RDD]

Once you have removed the 2 top screws and 1 bottom screw the cover should just pull foreward.

Don't worry about the dials they are part of the cover.
Once cover released unclip the cable connector to the on/off button.

The dials just fit on to splines on the controls.
Just put the dials in a position you'll remember before removing cover, ie both dials vertical and they'll be ok when cover refitted.

Excellent, many thanks for that, I really can't understand why it feels so solid when I try to pull it away from the back casing, perhaps it's just got "gunged up" over the years...

I may be asking for a bit more kind assistance when I get inside

 

[seco services]

It can only really be catching on the lugs where the screws go in.
Try pushing the front up/down slightly and easing foreward.
Or tight on the rubber seal.

 

[RDD]

It can only really be catching on the lugs where the screws go in.
Try pushing the front up/down slightly and easing foreward.
Or tight on the rubber seal.

Will give it a try, thanks, might try separating it at the corners with a thin chisel or such like.

 

[RDD]

OK I think I may be doing something wrong here, I'm trying to separate the glass part from the grey surround (referred to as the trim plate?), and that's still solid.

http://www.tritonshowers.co.uk/media/11165/inscriptions_electric_shower.pdf

So I've looked at the diagram again and would I be right in thinking that the grey surround (trim plate) comes away with the glass front cover leaving a smaller plate (back plate) behind it? In which case the reason it's solid is because a) it doesn't separate the way I'm trying to do it and b) it's siliconed to the wall.

 

[RDD]

Think I've just answered my own question! I've been trying to separate the front cover assembly

 

[seco services]

Yes you can't see the back plate with cover on you need to remove the whole lot ie the bit which the screws in 2 top a 1 bottom.

Cut the silicone and it'll come off. Run a stanley blade round the edge.

Plus it should never be siliconed to the wall it can cause overheat.

 

[RDD]

Yes you can't see the back plate with cover on you need to remove the whole lot ie the bit which the screws in 2 top a 1 bottom.

Cut the silicone and it'll come off. Run a stanley blade round the edge.

Plus it should never be siliconed to the wall it can cause overheat.

All done Unfortunately looking at how embedded the heat can is I feel it's a little beyond my skill set, I've done the equivalent of opening the bonnet on the motorway after a breakdown, I'm just looking for the obvious but fixing it's a skilled job

There's a lot of pipes and wires going on there, my fear isn't so much the electric more the water, obviously I'd have to shut off the water to swap out the unit (I can't see an isolation value anywhere, unless it's in the loft) and my concern is if it all goes wrong and I do a rubbish job or simply can't get it back together again then the house will then have no water supply until I can get someone in!

If I'm feeling brave I may try to find an isolation valve and could perhaps contemplate the job, but I think a professional may be best as whoever put it in (as you've already noted with the silicone) had no idea what they were doing, there is a large thin black rubber grommet/washer just aimlessly hanging around the bottom of the outlet pipe and I found the neon light stuck up near the top of the heater can, they obviously had no idea what it was

Thanks for your help thus far anyway, at least I've ruled out anything obvious, it all looks neat and tidy, no burnouts or leaks etc.

 

[seco services]

The black rubber washer is it fixed round the outlet pipe ?
The neon should fit in the cover so it shines through the on/off button.

The shower isolations not a real issue if you remove the shower or can't fix it.

What's wrong with the shower, You mention heat can ?

 

[RDD]

The black rubber washer is it fixed round the outlet pipe ?
The neon should fit in the cover so it shines through the on/off button.

The shower isolations not a real issue if you remove the shower or can't fix it.

What's wrong with the shower, You mention heat can ?

Yes it's just literally loosely hanging around the pipe just above the screw which holds the outlet pipe to the back plate (you can see the screw on the diagram), the solid part above the same area is a white piece of thin plastic.

Yeah I did notice the neon wire on the diagram and even knew where it should go from reading the install instructions, amazing that the installer didn't, there was clearly no "RTFM" at any point!

Well the shower works but only cold to very mild water comes out, whatever caused this problem also tripped the breaker, on resetting I noticed the complete lack of warmth.

How could I isolate this is I couldn't do it, I know there are types of screw in caps?

 

[seco services]

Yes it's just literally loosely hanging around the pipe just above the screw which holds the outlet pipe to the back plate (you can see the screw on the diagram), the solid part above the same area is a white piece of thin plastic.

Yes that's ok it's to stop water on the electrical parts.

Well the shower works but only cold to very mild water comes out, whatever caused this problem also tripped the breaker, on resetting I noticed the complete lack of warmth.

If it tripped the breaker then it's more likely the heat can.
You can test the heating elements with a multi meter for resistance.
You've more likely got one gone open circuit.

How could I isolate this is I couldn't do it, I know there are types of screw in caps?

You can Fit a isolation valve in the main pipe run, if not already got one.
or you can cap the pipe so you can turn the mains water back on.

 

[RDD]

Yes it's just literally loosely hanging around the pipe just above the screw which holds the outlet pipe to the back plate (you can see the screw on the diagram), the solid part above the same area is a white piece of thin plastic.

Yes that's ok it's to stop water on the electrical parts.

Well the shower works but only cold to very mild water comes out, whatever caused this problem also tripped the breaker, on resetting I noticed the complete lack of warmth.

If it tripped the breaker then it's more likely the heat can.
You can test the heating elements with a multi meter for resistance.
You've more likely got one gone open circuit.

How could I isolate this is I couldn't do it, I know there are types of screw in caps?

You can Fit a isolation valve in the main pipe run, if not already got one.
or you can cap the pipe so you can turn the mains water back on.

Excellent, will do. I'm shocked that the black washer is supposed to be there as it really doesn't seem to be use nor ornament, but if you say that's right then it must be