how to strip paint on old stairs

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Hello

Old Victorian house - different layers and patches of paint. Looking to get it back to plain wood.
Anyone had experience with a stripper product called ‘Kling strip’?
Reluctant to sand cos of lead paint.
Any advice on best approach appreciated

Thanks
 

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The older version of Nitromors used to be good, but the new formulation is rubbish. Fortunately you can still buy caustuc soda - needs to be used with care, though (old clothes, rubber gloves, goggles hood ventilation, always add the caustic to water NEVER the other way round, etc). Even with a good stripper there will be a LOT of scraping and sanding to do (wear a P3 mask and put a HEPA or P3 filter vacuum on the sander)
 
Like Job says the old Nitromors is a lot better than the new version. But the new version will work.
I've not tried caustic soda.
There is another product you could try called 'PeelAway' which I've seen being used, but not used personally.

I can vouch for the Nitromors but it will need many applications and a fair amount of time and patience.
The end result will be nice. I can see why you want to see the grain of the wood. It's beautiful.

p.s not tried Kling Strip but the reviews suggest it's good enough to have a try.
 
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wear PPE and open a window. Allow to act then scrape the goo into a foil container.
 
That will take a lot of work
Paint stripper,wire wool ,hard toothbrush.Paint hot air electric gun .
I used wax filler on small holes and mixed up filler using sawdust from the sanding with PVA on larger holes and areas.
Sanding with a mouse sander ,by hand with sanding sponge cloth for spindles.
I stripped my stairs and handrail , spindles in my last home painted in a horrible brown wood effect stain .
It took months!
I did use the old version of nitromos which saved time ,all the new versions are not as strong since health and safety and EU regulations.
Was it worth it? Yes it looked great.
 
I used wax filler on small holes and mixed up filler using sawdust from the sanding with PVA on larger holes and areas.
A word of caution about PVA and sawdust as a filler: when applied to holes there is a tendency for this to be spread onto woodwork surrounding the hole, where the glue gets absorbed into the grain of the timber.

The problem is that the glue blocks the pores of the timber, reducing or completely halting the ability of the wood to absorb stains but also changing the way in which even clear finishes react to the timber, often resulting in a milky or differently coloured patch. Sanding often doesn't remove this excess glue, and is why any professional woodworker would simply not consider using this ad-hoc filler.

There is an enduring fallacy, perpetuated by the Internet, that PVA and sawdust are a good filler. It is not.
 
Tendency! Which filler does not spread to surrounding areas and get absorbed by the wood grain .
It is obvious that any wood filler will block the wood grain after filling and will be different to unfilled and unfinished areas
Never had a problem using PVA and sawdust to fill small holes and cracks .
No different to using be a normal wood filler
 
Good job you don't want any sort off decent quality end finish, then! Sawdust and PVA is a bodge, it always was a bodge and it always will be a bodge. If you don't understand how to deal with defects and filling then why not educate yourself rather than perpetuate a bodge?
 
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