How would you move these sockets?

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Hello everyone. My mother has just ordered a new kitchen, and the new kitchen has a 50mm upstand at the back of worktop.

The existing sockets are original from when the kitchen was built in the 90s and are in a poor position anyway for moulded plugs as you can see.

There are 4 sockets on this part of the kitchen ring which need lifting as well as a 2G 20ADP isolator on a separate radial for the oven and extractor hood but they will stay in roughly the same position as they are now.

All the wiring is T&E and comes up from under the suspended timber floor and is buried direct in solid plaster on blockwork.

Ideally the plan is to have all the electrics at least first fixed before the kitchen fitter starts his work so it doesn’t delay him and also to keep the power on as much as possible to keep the appliances functioning before / during the kitchen fit.

I have an idea as to how I would do it but I thought it would be good to get suggestions from here incase I’m overlooking an easier or better way of doing the job.

The tiling is all coming off and the plasterwork will be patched as needed.

Thanks.
 
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I would extend cable with shrink sleeve, epoxy lined for outer, but the height needs to be low enough to reach from a wheel chair, when you can't wheel it to the wall due to counter top, so around 1200 mm high is the limit. But on second thoughts.

You could make a cover for the old back box that fits in it rather than on it, and use it as a junction box, using crimps, I would had said wango with most people, but realise you will likely have good crimp pliers and crimps to hand.

I do love the oxo dispenser.
 
I'm assuming these are all consecutively on the ring? I think I'd just find the two legs at each side of the section and get them out of the wall and to a couple of J803 joints that can end up under the units when job is done but put a link between them for now (include a couble of temporary points with cheapo metal clad accessories and stuffing glands if required). Then first fix your new points wherever you need them, with a short vertical drop (I'd probably put it in PVC conduit, but I'd be in the minority) to just under the countertop level and clip direct along the wall behind where units are going with a tail each end. Come back for second fix once everyone else as finished and make ends off into the joints once you've got the sockets on. Similar for oven radial.

Can't beleieve they are replacing those lovely 1990s tiles.... (but IIRC, your mother's house had mem2 board, so your 1990s rcbos are probably already type A :cool: )
 
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Why is RF asking this?

I have the feeling some some DI has been in and done something utterly strange and he is gathering various opinions on the way different folk would do it, before posting more pictures to compare and contrast!
 
Is the suspended floor being lifted?

I imagine this will or could be a combination of junction boxes under the base units, some new wiring, some new cables just clipped to the wall behind base units.

With the extent of the kitchen works in general, I see no point at all in merely extending the cables within the plasterwork, as it seems lazy to me.

I like the Oxo holder.
 
I don’t do so much installation these days so just thought it would be good to get a sanity check to make sure I’m not overthinking things! And well remembered @Adam_151 it is a memera2000 CU with type A RCD although it’s 16th edition split load not RCBOs!
 
I'm assuming these are all consecutively on the ring? I think I'd just find the two legs at each side of the section and get them out of the wall and to a couple of J803 joints that can end up under the units when job is done but put a link between them for now (include a couble of temporary points with cheapo metal clad accessories and stuffing glands if required). Then first fix your new points wherever you need them, with a short vertical drop (I'd probably put it in PVC conduit, but I'd be in the minority) to just under the countertop level and clip direct along the wall behind where units are going with a tail each end. Come back for second fix once everyone else as finished and make ends off into the joints once you've got the sockets on. Similar for oven radial.

Can't beleieve they are replacing those lovely 1990s tiles.... (but IIRC, your mother's house had mem2 board, so your 1990s rcbos are probably already type A :cool: )

I partly like that, but having found (or made) a leg at each end of the wall, I favour putting a socket at each end, and chasing horizontally along the kitchen wall with the maximum possible number of sockets, switches and FCUs in a row, say 200mm above worktop level, with switches feeding flex outlets or unswitched sockets above and below the worktop, for extractor, cabinet lighting, dishwasher etc.
 
But back on the wiring ...

Do you know where the legs for the kitchen socket run come in?
 
No not sure but I’m sure I’ll find out. I want to try and avoid lifting the floor as it’s glued chipboard sheet.

I will see if she’s keeping the oxo dispenser if not I’ll have to auction it off on here
 
No not sure but I’m sure I’ll find out. I want to try and avoid lifting the floor as it’s glued chipboard sheet.
You got one of those armeg solid board cutter things and the covers that fit in afterwards? (or cheaper copy)


I will see if she’s keeping the oxo dispenser if not I’ll have to auction it off on here
I have too many things to do already, but now for some reason I feel I want to try and 3D print an oxo cube dispensor!
 
You got one of those armeg solid board cutter things and the covers that fit in afterwards? (or cheaper copy)



I have too many things to do already, but now for some reason I feel I want to try and 3D print an oxo cube dispensor!
Yeah I’ve got one but I’ve never liked using it. It just doesn’t feel like the proper way to do things but maybe that’s me being old fashioned.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4430592 ;)
 

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