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Simple answer is not to fit a poxy HRM boiler.
HRM Wall Star - Has packed up mysteriously...
- Thread starter barki
- Start date
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I'm Sorry to say this Terry but wallstars are in my top ten of oil boilers Terry.I've found if they're put in properly and system flushed then a good dose of inhibitor added,then they tend to behave and give pretty good service I had one in my house for 15 years not a bit of trouble with it.One time the diaphragm went so I striped the valve and resealed it all that was it,I cleaned it on a proper time scale it had a water treatment unit on it and an early filter on the return.really good boiler IMHO
Hi guys, me again.
Thanks for all of the above - I've now hit the thanks button (hadn't seen it before!), I did appreciate it before though...great site!
Anyway the Wallstar - a little update;
- I had the local oil pro around the other day to service it. He set up the pressure & air settings using the FGA which was great. Burn now seems odourless and spot on. Cool.
- Dissapointingly, it's still locking out due to the air bubble.
Having read the questions above, some info;
- Bubble only forms when the boiler is running.
- I can actually see *tiny* bubbles being pulled in where the clear hose joins the NRV -i.e on the left of the picture below. (Is this likely the prob? - I tried to film but the bubbles are so small you can't see on a video).
- Each morning and evening at the moment, I manipulate the bubble through the burner and leave the tube full of oil. After an hour or two, the bubble is large, by morning, its the full length of the pipe and the burner has locked out.
- There is no tiger valve
- There is a fire-valve on the ground below the burner, but I can't see anything? It does have a little black plastic nozzle on the underside which can be clicked 'in' or 'out'. Not sure what this is?
I'd like to try some of the tests you guys have mentioned - like checked the operation of the NRV by disconnecting the pump-end of the clear hose, but how will I get oil back up to the pump one I've done that, will it pull well enough?
I'm sure I could change the seal washers in the connections to the fire valve and NRV, but again, could I get oil back into the pipe without some kind of pump or syinge?
Cheers very much as always
Tom
Thanks for all of the above - I've now hit the thanks button (hadn't seen it before!), I did appreciate it before though...great site!
Anyway the Wallstar - a little update;
- I had the local oil pro around the other day to service it. He set up the pressure & air settings using the FGA which was great. Burn now seems odourless and spot on. Cool.
- Dissapointingly, it's still locking out due to the air bubble.
Having read the questions above, some info;
- Bubble only forms when the boiler is running.
- I can actually see *tiny* bubbles being pulled in where the clear hose joins the NRV -i.e on the left of the picture below. (Is this likely the prob? - I tried to film but the bubbles are so small you can't see on a video).
- Each morning and evening at the moment, I manipulate the bubble through the burner and leave the tube full of oil. After an hour or two, the bubble is large, by morning, its the full length of the pipe and the burner has locked out.
- There is no tiger valve
- There is a fire-valve on the ground below the burner, but I can't see anything? It does have a little black plastic nozzle on the underside which can be clicked 'in' or 'out'. Not sure what this is?
I'd like to try some of the tests you guys have mentioned - like checked the operation of the NRV by disconnecting the pump-end of the clear hose, but how will I get oil back up to the pump one I've done that, will it pull well enough?
I'm sure I could change the seal washers in the connections to the fire valve and NRV, but again, could I get oil back into the pipe without some kind of pump or syinge?
Cheers very much as always
Tom
All you gas boys are so quick to post on oil problems bur hide behind your combustion forum. Let us all in. (maybe you are frightened)
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Frightened of what exactly???
Barki,
The fire valve with the little black button on it can be used as an isolation valve. The bubbles coming in are at the root of your troubles and will enable the hose to drain. Isolate the fuel at the fire valve by clicking the button out, this will still keep the pipework full up to the valve in the boiler case. Take off the valve in the case and check its non return properties (try blowing backwards through it) If sound, remake the joints with new washers and thread sealant. The old washers may look sound, but over time they can develop 'tracks'.
The fire valve with the little black button on it can be used as an isolation valve. The bubbles coming in are at the root of your troubles and will enable the hose to drain. Isolate the fuel at the fire valve by clicking the button out, this will still keep the pipework full up to the valve in the boiler case. Take off the valve in the case and check its non return properties (try blowing backwards through it) If sound, remake the joints with new washers and thread sealant. The old washers may look sound, but over time they can develop 'tracks'.
Of exploding the smoke and mirrors myths you like to hide behind. We could all see how simple the job is.
I know you will now harp on about safety, and I do not condone dangerous work, whether it be gas, oil or electricity, but despite the secrecy of your club, people still do silly things. Merchants are only supposed to supply gas train parts to registered outlets, but there is never any problem obtaining supplies.
Get some heldite and paint it on the place where the bubbles are forming while the burner is running,the flow of oil will pull the heldite in to the leak and seal it.Bob
I would get your experienced guy back to finish the job. After servicing it correctly and solving the leak on the oil supply, which could be caused by a number of faults but most would be picked up on a good service
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