I have one of these.....
- Thread starter Holly64
- Start date
It is heated via a gas central heating boiler. I want to change it to a new cylinder which will allow it to be heated via the gas boiler, or via electricity immersion heater.
Have been looking at screwfix but I can't work out the correct product to by. Some of the tanks are called 'indirected' and others are called 'vented'.
Grateful if a correct link could be uploaded for me?
Have been looking at screwfix but I can't work out the correct product to by. Some of the tanks are called 'indirected' and others are called 'vented'.
Grateful if a correct link could be uploaded for me?
This is a standard indirect copper cylinder which has connections to fix to a boiler. Inside is a coil of copper tubing, the water in which is heated by the boiler. The heat generated there heats the domestic hot water, hence the indirect term.
I'd be surprised if there wasn't a blanking nut where an immersion heater could be fitted.
John
I'd be surprised if there wasn't a blanking nut where an immersion heater could be fitted.
John
Hi John
Yes, there is a blanking nut. I have been told that when trying to open these on aged tanks, often they crack. I need to have the equivalent product so that I can have the immersion heater fitted. Are you able to suggest a suitable product from screwfix?
Yes, there is a blanking nut. I have been told that when trying to open these on aged tanks, often they crack. I need to have the equivalent product so that I can have the immersion heater fitted. Are you able to suggest a suitable product from screwfix?
D
Deleted member 267285
It doesn’t look that old. Are you wanting just an immersion heater or cylinder as well?
D
Deleted member 267285
But if it’s got the immersion blank, could you not just fit an immersion heater? Is there a spur available for an immersion? Looking on screwfix, you would probably want something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/rm-indir...00/40045#product_additional_details_container but doesn’t state if it takes an immersion heater (most do), but you could always check.
Last edited by a moderator:
D
Deleted member 267285
Post edited, iPad autocorrect again 
meant to say you would probably want something like this.
meant to say you would probably want something like this.1. If you are prepared to buy a new cylinder, surely you have nothing to lose by trying to open the blanking nut.
2a. Assuming the blanking plug is on or near the top.
2b. Leave the cylinder full of water and try undoing it very slightly. If it shifts, turn off the cold water feed to the cylinder and open a hot tap to drain the water from the pipework. You'll get a little water out, but nothing a couple of old towels shouldn't handle. Buy and fit an immersion heater.
3a. If the blanking plug is near the bottom, as 2b, but you'll have to drain the cylinder before slackening the plug after turning off the cold feed.
4. An immersion heater should have its own circuit breaker in the consumer unit, with its own 2.5 mm cable (unless you have a very complicated cable route) from the consumer unit to a fused, switched, cable outlet. Don't try and run it off a ring main. The connection from cable outlet to heater should be in suitably rated (13 amp for a 3 kW heater) heat resistant flexible cable. Make sure all connections are well made and tight, otherwise you'll get arcing, and at best a broken connection, at worst a fire.
2a. Assuming the blanking plug is on or near the top.
2b. Leave the cylinder full of water and try undoing it very slightly. If it shifts, turn off the cold water feed to the cylinder and open a hot tap to drain the water from the pipework. You'll get a little water out, but nothing a couple of old towels shouldn't handle. Buy and fit an immersion heater.
3a. If the blanking plug is near the bottom, as 2b, but you'll have to drain the cylinder before slackening the plug after turning off the cold feed.
4. An immersion heater should have its own circuit breaker in the consumer unit, with its own 2.5 mm cable (unless you have a very complicated cable route) from the consumer unit to a fused, switched, cable outlet. Don't try and run it off a ring main. The connection from cable outlet to heater should be in suitably rated (13 amp for a 3 kW heater) heat resistant flexible cable. Make sure all connections are well made and tight, otherwise you'll get arcing, and at best a broken connection, at worst a fire.
Fuse isn't required or desirable, a 20A switch is a far better choice.
Hi
Yes, it is my intention to try to open the blanking nut etc. Basically, I live over 200 miles away from the property - I will be present when the plumber and electrician comes in. My thoughts are to have a new tank on standby, so that if the cylinder does break, the plumbers can continue with the new product. If I am lucky and get away with using the existing tank, I can just get screwfix to return to stock.
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