seems to be ?
have you checked ?
remember the fellas are reading type not looking at the job
have you checked ?
remember the fellas are reading type not looking at the job
Ideal Classic FF
- Thread starter tripletop
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On the pcb the lead going to the potentiometer( temp knob ) on the front. Pink brown and white I thnk. Unplug this from the pcb when it has turned off by reaching temp. If it comes back on it means the boiler had reached temperature.
You could also take the temp of the pipes coming out boiler. You don't want a massive difference ( less than 20 ok). If it's too high it is a sign of not proper circulation. Again this proves an airlock somewhere. Check for any high points on the pipework from boiler to pump etc
You could also take the temp of the pipes coming out boiler. You don't want a massive difference ( less than 20 ok). If it's too high it is a sign of not proper circulation. Again this proves an airlock somewhere. Check for any high points on the pipework from boiler to pump etc
Circulation problems of this type are usualy caused, by people only partialy draining down, to change a radiator ect,
And I find time and time again they finish up with a slug of air in the return pipework, which no amount of bleeding at the radiators will shift.
I find the easyest way to fix this is to, close all radiator valves on the feed side of the radiator be they thermostatic or wheel head
Then attach a hose to the return pipework draincock if you have one. and drain down until it runs clear, Close drain cock!!!
Then vent all radiators again, then open up all the radiator valves you shut off and try the heating again,
If you dont have a draincock on the return pipework, you can make up a "tail" to fit in place of a vent plug in the top of the radiator,( That is assuming its a standard 1/2" BSP thread) With a 15mm service valve and a short piece of 15mm tubing
Make up tail by fixing tube to one side of service valve and discard nut and olive from the other end and wrap with PTFE tape
Turn off both radiator valves, release any pressure in radiator with vent key, remove vent plug, have "tail" you made up ready to fit, You will loose a bit of water,
Then attach hose to tail , open up lockshield, and drain as above untill its clear of air
And I find time and time again they finish up with a slug of air in the return pipework, which no amount of bleeding at the radiators will shift.
I find the easyest way to fix this is to, close all radiator valves on the feed side of the radiator be they thermostatic or wheel head
Then attach a hose to the return pipework draincock if you have one. and drain down until it runs clear, Close drain cock!!!
Then vent all radiators again, then open up all the radiator valves you shut off and try the heating again,
If you dont have a draincock on the return pipework, you can make up a "tail" to fit in place of a vent plug in the top of the radiator,( That is assuming its a standard 1/2" BSP thread) With a 15mm service valve and a short piece of 15mm tubing
Make up tail by fixing tube to one side of service valve and discard nut and olive from the other end and wrap with PTFE tape
Turn off both radiator valves, release any pressure in radiator with vent key, remove vent plug, have "tail" you made up ready to fit, You will loose a bit of water,
Then attach hose to tail , open up lockshield, and drain as above untill its clear of air
Thanks to both. I will try the drain suggestion first and then mess with the sparkies later if necessary!
With all this draining, what do you advise as regards replenishing the inhibitor, and is this best done by adding to the header tank?
With all this draining, what do you advise as regards replenishing the inhibitor, and is this best done by adding to the header tank?
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