Ideal Classic wont fire

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30 Jan 2006
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Location
Glasgow
Country
United Kingdom
Ive got a fault with this boiler, customer has had new PCB fitted and will only fix boiler, not responsible for pump/valve in airing cupboard.

Im sure the mid position is a Danfoss, which ive never seen, is the wiring on this the same as a Honeywell 4073a ?.

The pump humms fine on 3 speeds.

Can anyone suggest what voltages i should be geting at the wiring centre ?.

Regards
Al
 
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I had a hand written note from customer, then i popped round for a quick visit.

Customer tells me the boiler will fire for a few seconds then shut off.

The insurance obviously covers the boiler only, So i am assuming the boiler is working 100%.

They finish off saying we cant fix it, and customers insurance doesnt cover external components to the boiler.

They say it might be blocked and need power flushed.

Im going round tomorrow, Hoping it might be the mid-pos valve not sending correct votlage.

any ideas ?

Al
 
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Is pump actually circulatingwater?

Is there water in the system? Header tank full? Cold feed blocked?

Check boiler is still getting 240v when it shuts off, it has no permanent live. This will prove whether the external controls are the problem.

Id start with circulation issue
 
Pump sounds good on each speed.

Header tank good.

Would you expect worst area to be where cold feed tees in ? (will try magnet)

Is the wiring centre the best place to check supply to boiler ?, is so are we talking the main Live/Neutral points.


Cheers
Al
 
I had a similar problem on one of these last month. It ended up being a stuck pump valve (lower one) in the end, however a local gas eng friend had been out to one the week before this and it was the solenoid on the gas valve. You can't just change the solenoid, so you have to change the whole gas valve, he said it's a common problem on Classics. Let us know what it was. Yours won't be the pump valve as you can hear the water swishing around.
 
Is the wiring centre the best place to check supply to boiler ?, is so are we talking the main Live/Neutral points.


Cheers
Al

Boiler would be a good place to check boiler supply :idea:

The incoming main will be behind the drop down cover where the PCB is on the right hand side.
 
Is the wiring centre the best place to check supply to boiler ?, is so are we talking the main Live/Neutral points.


Cheers
Al

Boiler would be a good place to check boiler supply :idea:

The incoming main will be behind the drop down cover where the PCB is on the right hand side.

So If i get 230/240 @ boiler supply, I can assume mid-pos,cyl-stat & room stat are working Electrically at least ?.

Many thanks to Petit/Jezzy, I do appreciate the help.

Al
 
So If i get 230/240 @ boiler supply, I can assume mid-pos,cyl-stat & room stat are working Electrically at least ?.

Many thanks to Petit/Jezzy, I do appreciate the help.

Al

Yep, then its a question of why the boilers off.

As jezzy said, the solenoids can fail on gas valve. Again check for 240v at gas valve when it goes off.

Check whether the boiler stat is up to temp or calling still. Usually if its circulation problem the flow pipe will be red hot just above the boiler when it goes off
 
Ok will check for live supply when calling for Heat/HW.
Im assuming the gas engineer checked the gas valve, but cant be sure.
Would i power off the boiler and check continuity across the stat ?.

Al
 
Ive got a fault with this boiler, customer has had new PCB fitted and will only fix boiler, not responsible for pump/valve in airing cupboard.
Al

From your original post i assumed you were the engineer?

Would i power off the boiler and check continuity across the stat ?.
Yes thats the safest way[/quote]
 
The boiler has had new PCB and other parts im told.

The engineer from insurance company says he only covers the boiler, no external parts.

Im a plumber called in as customer has no HW or heat since november last year.

I was paid off a few days ago, just tring to keep my hand in to pay mortgage.

Many thanks for fast info Petit.
 
I had a similar problem on one of these last month. It ended up being a stuck pump valve (lower one) in the end, however a local gas eng friend had been out to one the week before this and it was the solenoid on the gas valve. You can't just change the solenoid, so you have to change the whole gas valve, he said it's a common problem on Classics. Let us know what it was. Yours won't be the pump valve as you can hear the water swishing around.

the solenoid is really common, and ya can just change the solenoid 5min job ;)
 
Ah but can you buy just the solenoid? I was told you had to buy the whole gas valve with the solenoid attached?
 

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