Ideal he30 L-F fault

You will obviously be surprised to know that some do use an oscilloscope!
 
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EDIT I am aware that some sometimes a solenoid can be pulled in with a certain voltage and then held in by a ( much ) lower voltage.

So do you think a solenoid operates by voltage?

Because I would say it works on a current!
 
So do you think a solenoid operates by voltage?

Yes of course it is current operated but the current is determined by the voltage applied and the resistance of the coil. ( impedance if it is an AC operated solenoid ).
 
You will obviously be surprised to know that some do use an oscilloscope!

and may even use one to determine if there is a PWM control signal generated by the PCB to control the speed of the fan. Helps to locate the fault, If no PWM signal then the PCB is suspect., if there is a valid PWM signal but no fan rotation then the fan is suspect.
 
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Loads more issues cause an LF than PCB or Gas valve.
But I can't help you as you aren't a registered installer.
Bengasman might but he's full of drivel so take anything he says with a pinch of salt.
 
It is not necessary to know how a boiler works to know how to verify the reason for low voltage on a solenoid coil.
so you think its the gas valve then ? reading the manual is only a guide, but as i said before you need to know how and when the boiler works , i bet the op thinks because of your post that its the gas valve now , which in retrospect is he is now dealing with the main gas component :rolleyes:
 
so you think its the gas valve then ?

My comments were about how a technician with some knowledge of electromagnetic devices would tackle the problem.

I do not endorse DIY gas work as the risks of incompetent work due to ignorance are too high.
 
Probably the most common fault on an isar. And at least ten (off the top of me head) possibilities that can make it happen.
 
Well boiler is now fixed.I bought a second hand ignition module off ebay for £8 and a second hand pcb for £9.99.I fitted the ignition module first and the boiler fired up and is working perfectly(for how long ,time will tell with this model!).So my original hunch that it was the circuit board was wrong.So just for reference the boiler would start but not fire.The fan would run and the pump but after three attempts of firing the boiler would then shut down with F-L flashing.The lack of 200volts at the gas solenoid was a red herring.The boiler probably goes through a series of checks before attempting to fire and if it fails these checks then voltage istn't supplied to the other components (thats my theory anyway).
So to recap change the ignition module first if you have the same symptoms as i did.Thanks for everyones input.
 
Of course the correct advice, which you have apparently not learnt, is that the boiler should not be repaired by anyone who is jot gas registered!
 
Hi, I have an Ideal HE30 which is displaying the L-F fault. I have measured only 110v dc at the gas valve(instead of 200v i believe) and there is no voltage going to the igniter module except for near the end of the sequence when 200v flashes up for about a second.
you need to know the sequence , thats why you missed it

FFS a PCB for £10 REALLY .... :rolleyes:
 
Why buy the scrap pcb, fault was 100% diagnosed in your first post?
 
I take it you removed the burner and checked insulation and removed and upgraded the retention pins per Corgi Bulletin from about 8 years ago?
Then on putting boiler back you checked FSD, inlet dynamic pressure, gas rate and did a Flue gas analysis in line with anyone taking off combustion cover.
 
I take it you removed the burner and checked insulation and removed and upgraded the retention pins per Corgi Bulletin from about 8 years ago?
Then on putting boiler back you checked FSD, inlet dynamic pressure, gas rate and did a Flue gas analysis in line with anyone taking off combustion cover.
That's the thing these people don't realise just changing parts in their own boilers , idiots . Sitting back in their chair satisfied with their efforts when they could/probably have made it even more dangerous . There's no telling people sometimes
 
The boiler is being gas safety checked next week.I don't really see how replacing an ignition module warrants all of your tests shambolic.I have not touched the gas valve or pipe work,the flue or the burner or insulation.You are just being pedantic and extremely unhelpful.I have only replaced the ignition module which does not have any gas or flue issues.The ignition spark plug that goes into the boiler has not been touched.If any of the above tests need performing then the gas safety engineer will do them next week i assume.
 

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