ideal hw heat exchanger

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got to clean one out next Friday, only 3 years old, are they easy and any advice would be grateful
 
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Im goin to guess its the isar. Anything up to 30kw is easy to remove the plate heat ex. 30kw (and above?) fouls on the condensate trap. And to remove the trap you need to remove the plate, catch 22. The larger plates do come out if you wiggle them around a bit
 
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Take new o-rings, cover the electrics (cos the pcb LOVES water)
careful not to snap the dhw thermistor if you dont remove it as it sits in the plate.
Then enjoy and behold Ideals engineering marvel
 
Take new o-rings, cover the electrics (cos the pcb LOVES water)
careful not to snap the dhw thermistor if you dont remove it as it sits in the plate.
Then enjoy and behold Ideals engineering marvel

Its defo one of the hardest to remove. Last one i removed i poured water over the incoming mains block. Fan heater to the rescue, no way i was risking switching that on
 
Renewed the orings on an M30/100 today, cue the poxy condensate trap to self-implode as soon as I touched it..... :evil:
 
teach me for thinking "I''ll clean it out whilst I'm here"
can of worms.........and it wasnt even my job....
DV passing, plate leaking, AAV leaking... no ionisation pins, sump in h/ex dirtier than a hippos banger hanger.....
:evil:
 
teach me for thinking "I''ll clean it out whilst I'm here"
can of worms.........and it wasnt even my job....
DV passing, plate leaking, AAV leaking... no ionisation pins, sump in h/ex dirtier than a hippos banger hanger.....
:evil:

Bet its had a few visits recently too and been bounced. Sounds like the ****e i walk into
 
Hi eaton what model is it mate and i will tell you exactly what to do, the plate is compressed copper and the water ways are pretty tight which is one of the reasons it gets blocked.

Thanks

JJ
 
I thought plate heat exchangers were stainless steel plates NOT copper, the expansion/contraction helps break scale up.
Cut one in half or take it to the scrappy and they are stainless steel
 

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