ideal isar he 24 hot water

[grunter]

hi every one just joined this forum
can anybody help me i am a fireplace fitter for years i have fitted gas fires and back boilers, i am now branching out into servicing and fitting combi's
i have a problem with an ideal isar he 24

there is no heating but hot water
the heating flow pipe is really warm and the return is stone cold
the heating runs for five minutes the turns off

the pump feels like it is running but i cant confirm it is working correctly

but the only thing i think it could be is the pump or a divertor valve

can any one shed some light

cheers grunter

 

[Gasman28]

Normally, if the pump is faulty, a L9 or H9 fault code will appear.
Daft question I know, but are all the radiator valves open?
It could possibly be the diverter valve has stuck.
Is the system pressure between 1 and 1.5 bar?

 

[gas4you]

Whats on the display when you are trying to run the heating? 'c' or 'd' ?

If 'd' it's stuck in HW mode, could be a dripping tap somewhere or a leak.

If 'c' then possibly DV stuck, very common on these.

 

[shambolic]

If your heating flow is roasting but the return cold then this is normally a circulation problem but not the diverter valve as the diverter valve would be in hw mode so no heat down flow pipe to rads.
usually pump but would have h9/l9 or ha or even le usually on display.
First thing though is the displa is it showing C or d(t) if d or t it is in hw mode and possibly dripping tap. If C then remove div valve head and push pin in manually for hw or release it for ch.
Sounds like a circulation problem on sys.

 

[shambolic]

Is it a Saltire job if so it could possibly be the pump due to poor flushing but if pump slow or sluggish then hw would be affected too especially in a north lanarkshire job as they fitted 35kw Isars, so more load on hw at 35kw only 24kw to heating

 

[grunter]

this is a in one of the new houses in the old motherwell bridge site have fixed two pcb's in the same boilers in two other propertys i think it is a flushing problem my self due to the fact that the electric shower is not working correctly up the stairs ether, it could be due to rubbish working practice's like passing pipes through was with open ends on pipes in turn filling the system with debris, im going back tonight to look at it going to flush out, check pump and divertor valve and let you know how i get on

the 'c' flashes on the boiler but no other fault code

also the pump is viabrating as if it is running but who knows it could be stuck or jammed with debris

have not checked the divertor valve but will tonight

thanks for the help guys

will let you know how i get on ether way i think its a visit to parts center

on saturday morn

 

[gigz]

Have you tried turning the pump ?

 

[shambolic]

IF you have solid C and flashing blue light that is telling you the thermistor is up to temp on CH. Likewise d and flash is up to temp on hw.
Could be diverter stuck in hw mode so boiler will just heat plate hex and keep cutting out as no transfer.
Pull the head off the valve and make sure spindle moves freely on the brass or plastic diverter valve!
Any probs come back on!

 

[shambolic]

I have had one before where the user control was goosed (this has the potentiometers in it)
Very rare though i had went down the diverter valve head and body route before finding that one.

 

[heatingman]

If its a new install check that the installer has removed the transit plugs from the boiler tails, quite a common fault.

 

[snb]

have you opened the isolating valves on the flow and return!! they are supplied shut

 

[grunter]

the boler is thee years old guys

last night i remove the head of the diverter and pushed the brass pin in and out it seamed to be free and was not stuck in any one position

i then emptyed/flushed the system refilled and tried again with it

same problem

the pump is roasting and vibrateing like it is working and is not noisey

so i can only asume that the pump is working hot water works fine

but when it go's from CH to DHW there is no noise from the divertor valve head i can only asumme it i quite but in my experince of honeywell 's' and 'y' plan valves they make a wining wee noise so im not sure if its the divetor or the pump is jammed the easy and cheap option ah think would be to change the divetor head

the guy is easy going enough but i runn the risk of looking like a right rip off clown if i charge him 100 quid plus labour for the pump if its not it

as we say in motherwell "its bursting ma heed man"

 

[heatingman]

drain down, undo flow and return compression joints below boiler and poke a long screwdriver up through valve to establish that plugs removed and ball valves have opened.

 

[cowboyplumber]

drain down, undo flow and return compression joints below boiler and poke a long screwdriver up through valve to establish that plugs removed and ball valves have opened.

ERM, it's THREE years old...

 

[diverdee]

remove the user control by removing the small screw underneath (not the whole unit leave mains switch and mounting panel on) the pcb will fire boiler and run at max if it does not does this then it is divertor.but doing this eliminates the user pontimeters