Ideal Logic+ Reversed pipe connections

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Maybe the experts can work out the direction of the pump from your photo. If not:

The arrow is normally cast into the back part of the pump. Most of what's visible in your pic is the pump motor, which can be attached to the back (wet) part of the pump in different orientations. Look on the top and/or bottom of the back part for a raised arrow in the casting.

(Here is the instruction booklet for the pump. The arrow is shown in some of the smaller figures at the bottom of the second page.)

https://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/wcsst...ang.all/ti/on/CPumps_Compact_Installation.pdf
 
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Can't believe he didn't tidy up the pipework a bit better, remove most of the old rubbish and put in new.

It's not your problem really it's his, you shouldn't have paid him until you got what you were paying for .....a working heating system.
That would have fired him up to sort it out, unfortunately you've paid him.

Are the zone valves working ok?

Try it individually on heating or hot water not both at the same time and report back ........
Does the boiler fire up ?

If it's plumbed up correctly I'd guess a valve is closed somewhere .....are the pump valves open for starters ?
 
The wiring looks poor as well. Are the cables entering the boiler through the rubber cable sealing grommets? Cables aren't secured under cable clamps either. Who would leave the pipework above the boiler like that?
 
Looks bad then does it not. Will have another look tomorrow and report back. Don't know where to look for pump valves but will see what I can do tomorrow. Thank you everyone for your input.
 
That pump valve looks closed to me, it's the one with the square end on a circular shaft next to the the pump , try turning them anti clockwise. Gently but enough to turn them.

The length it's showing looks to me like it's screwed in not out. In = closed out = open.
 
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Hi everyone. Pump arrow is facing in correct direction. Both valves are open. I have tried water only and heating only and both do the same. I will put pic of connections in case. It appears the pump + also has a - connected to it that goes to water thermostat. Don't know if that's correct.
 
It appears the pump + also has a - connected to it that goes to water thermostat. Don't know if that's correct.
There is no + and -. The pumps live should be connected to the cylinder stats call for heat connection as it directly switches the pump and boiler on.
See Y plan diagram.
And this box is buzzing
The valve may hum gently as when the motor has reached the correct position, as it is still powered, but stalled. Your fault is almost certainly a pluming/installation issue rather than electrical. Even if the valve was dead or stuck the water would still flow through it. (assuming the flow path wasn't blocked with debris of course)
 
That's brill. Thank you so much. It's beginning to appear as if the system might be bunged up then as everything else seems in place.
 
A couple of things - the buzzing box ( 3 way diverter valve) there is a lever on it that you can move along and hook to secure it open. Do that, and it will allow water to both rads and cyl. The pipework above the boiler - the flow ? right hand pipe on top of boiler. Where it crosses back to the old pipe - is it dipping down or is it an optical illusion :unsure: The small feed tank (cistern) in the loft - is there water in it and does the float valve work ?
 

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