If rads are rusting inside, can anything be done?
- Thread starter vegasgo
- Start date
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Radiators will rust very slowly if using a sealed system as there is no oxygen getting into the system.
So they should last years without any problems. If they are rusting at a much faster rate there is a fault in the system.
Flushing only cleans out the system.
An inhibtors added to the water slows the rusting process.
So they should last years without any problems. If they are rusting at a much faster rate there is a fault in the system.
Flushing only cleans out the system.
An inhibtors added to the water slows the rusting process.
Please see my other posts for my predicament.
My 7-year-old system keep failing, the hex is continually getting blocked up.
There is a chance in the past the system was running without inhibitor. Also an ongoing leak was letting air into the system for months, if not years. Been told the rads are breaking up inside.
Systems has been powerflushed twice, rads off and flushed, untold cleaning chemicals and inhibitor added, all in the past 18 months. The hex still gets blocked.
Once rusting occurs, can nothing stop it?
My 7-year-old system keep failing, the hex is continually getting blocked up.
There is a chance in the past the system was running without inhibitor. Also an ongoing leak was letting air into the system for months, if not years. Been told the rads are breaking up inside.
Systems has been powerflushed twice, rads off and flushed, untold cleaning chemicals and inhibitor added, all in the past 18 months. The hex still gets blocked.
Once rusting occurs, can nothing stop it?
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there are three possibilities:
1) the fault allowing air into the system may still exit, in which case any chemicals will be overwhelmed and the rusting will continue
2) there is still old sediment in the system, and you need a system filter to catch it before it can accumulate into blockages
3) both.
What colour is the sediment? how old are the radiators?
What was done to remedy the cause of air getting in?
Is yours a sealed system or does it have a feed and expansion tank in the loft? If not, look at the pipe from the pressure release valve, which probably goes through the wall behind the boiler. are there signs that it has been discharging water?
1) the fault allowing air into the system may still exit, in which case any chemicals will be overwhelmed and the rusting will continue
2) there is still old sediment in the system, and you need a system filter to catch it before it can accumulate into blockages
3) both.
What colour is the sediment? how old are the radiators?
What was done to remedy the cause of air getting in?
Is yours a sealed system or does it have a feed and expansion tank in the loft? If not, look at the pipe from the pressure release valve, which probably goes through the wall behind the boiler. are there signs that it has been discharging water?
Sediment is like black particles, magnatite I guess. Rads are Acova ones, 7 years old, plus 2 in the attic that are very old, and a bathroom towel rad replaced last month.
Leak was diagnosed as a pipe running to a rad under concrete floor, so this was capped off.
It's a sealed system.
Leak was diagnosed as a pipe running to a rad under concrete floor, so this was capped off.
It's a sealed system.
I think so, it's my old house I let so can't say for sure.
I am considering the possibility that fresh aerated water is being introduced through the filling loop, either deliberately to top up water lost through a leak or escaping through the PRV; or because the filling valve is letting by..
Is the filling loop disconnected after use, or just turned off?
Is the filling loop disconnected after use, or just turned off?
You need to keep a record of when the system is topped up!
It could be the tenants are intentionally sabotaging it!
It can take several months for the dirt to be collected by a filter. Only mag dirt is collected by magnetic filters.
I prefer to use a gauze filter in a problem system.
Tony
It could be the tenants are intentionally sabotaging it!
It can take several months for the dirt to be collected by a filter. Only mag dirt is collected by magnetic filters.
I prefer to use a gauze filter in a problem system.
Tony
Your messages are prompting me to look further into the history of the system. Please bare in mind, it has been let for four years so this may be a pit patchy.
At some point I know the original filling valve attached to the boiler was left on continuously because of the leak. How long for, I do not know.
Because of this the pressure relief valve has been replaced along with the expansion vessel, when the leak was found and stopped.
The original filling valve does not work/or is disconected. If you turn it on now, water drips from the boiler. A new filling loop was added along with the mag filter/powerflush 18 months ago. The filling loop stays connected (I know) but has valves at either end so I don't think this is introducing fresh water.
How/where would a gauze filter be added?
At some point I know the original filling valve attached to the boiler was left on continuously because of the leak. How long for, I do not know.
Because of this the pressure relief valve has been replaced along with the expansion vessel, when the leak was found and stopped.
The original filling valve does not work/or is disconected. If you turn it on now, water drips from the boiler. A new filling loop was added along with the mag filter/powerflush 18 months ago. The filling loop stays connected (I know) but has valves at either end so I don't think this is introducing fresh water.
How/where would a gauze filter be added?
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