if you get a leak in ch pipe

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If you get a leak (say upstairs) in a central heating pipe, what is best way to stop the leak?

It's a conventional system (hot cylinder in airing cupboard, tank in attic).

I assume 1) stop inflow into attic tank & b) drain off system from downstairs.

Is there any other easy/quick method?
What about the leak - any temporary trick to stop the leak while you drain down..?
 
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I've seen a small self-tapping screw used to stop a leak temporarily.

Close the main stopcock or go in the attic and tie up the ballcock on the small F&E tank. Open the CH drain. I usually go round first and close both ends of the rads, which means I don't have to go round later and bleed them all as I'm only draining the pipework.

I've got a proper drain valve fitted to my system now with a 1/4 turn stopcock and a 15mm pipe running outdoors. I fit a hose over that and let the system water run into the main sewer rather than into the brook, which runs under our house. Don't want to give the fishies a headache!

In our last house we had two instances of tiny pinholes opening up in CH pipes. The first warning of a leak was a smell of damp plaster in the room below. I understand that pinholes are not uncommon in houses built at a certain time because of impurities in the copper. I was glad to sell that house; it felt like a ticking timebomb.
 
Is the leak actually in the pipe or is it a fitting - if so what sort? A compression fitting could perhaps just need nipping up a bit but needs care not to overtighten.

Otherwise drain down asap to prevent any damage to decor and building fabric. Should only need to partially drain down as the leak is upstairs. As above, if you shut down all the rads then you will only drain the pipework.

If it's a soldered joint then cut out and replace; compression may need to be released and remade with a bit of PTFE round the olive.
 
Thanks.

Closing off the rads is such a simple and obvious thing to do .... once pointed out!

self-tapping screw?
 
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Thanks.

Closing off the rads is such a simple and obvious thing to do .... once pointed out!

self-tapping screw?


Are you sure? I was taught to open EVERYTHING, otherwise you stand a good risk of airlocks everywhere, or at least a lot of air which will still have to be vented.
 
Plus if you close the lockshields on a more complex system you may be giving yourself the extra hassle of balancing the system when you finally get rid of the airlocks.
 
Plus if you close the lockshields on a more complex system you may be giving yourself the extra hassle of balancing the system when you finally get rid of the airlocks.

Not if you're sensible enough to make a note of the number of turns as you shut down.
 
By draining the rads you're giving yourself even more work - first opening the bleed screws then going round and closing them then going round and re-opening them to bleed out the air.

Admittedly air will collect after a drain-down but happily in my house it all collects in the bathroom towel rail.
 
Also turning rad valves on off can create leaks and if its the old type that required an allen key or a screwdriver to turn them off then they will also need changed as these dont stop leaking once touched
 
Also turning rad valves on off can create leaks and if its the old type that required an allen key or a screwdriver to turn them off then they will also need changed as these dont stop leaking once touched

Excellent tip for the newly qualified and unwary!
 

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