Ignition Failure in Boiler From Hell (Response 80)
- Thread starter Vehlin
- Start date
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No DIY gas here, I just cleaned the bits my mate removed. I value my flat more than I rate my skills 
I did do the gas volume test myself tho, that was just a case of turning on a tap and timing the gas meter.
I'm only asking for your opinion because I'll be the one ordering replacement parts and I'd like to be as sure as I can that I'm not having things replaced that don't need it. My mates attitude to fault finding has always been one of replace everything til it starts working.
I did do the gas volume test myself tho, that was just a case of turning on a tap and timing the gas meter.
I'm only asking for your opinion because I'll be the one ordering replacement parts and I'd like to be as sure as I can that I'm not having things replaced that don't need it. My mates attitude to fault finding has always been one of replace everything til it starts working.
Right, update on the situation.
Gave up on trying to get my mate back round, so phoned someone who came on a recommendation. He was out within an hour and was very reasonably priced.
Unfortunately he wasn't able to solve the issue, however he has been able to do some more tests. Which I'll detail here.
He checked the gas pressure on both sides of the gas valve and it's definitely moving gas. He said he'd expect to see one solenoid open to get the pilot lit, with the second opening later to allow the full amount of gas through, however the gas valve is outputting 11.5 mBar from the get go.
Replaced the electrodes and flame sensor on an off chance as these are cheap, although we knew that the old electrodes were sparking.
So essentially we have gas going in, we have a spark but we're getting no ignition still. He is leaning towards it being the top PCB (37 I think) being on the fritz, however there's no details in the manual about how to check the PCB other than by substitution.
Anyone have any suggestions before I end up buying some of the more expensive parts?
Gave up on trying to get my mate back round, so phoned someone who came on a recommendation. He was out within an hour and was very reasonably priced.
Unfortunately he wasn't able to solve the issue, however he has been able to do some more tests. Which I'll detail here.
He checked the gas pressure on both sides of the gas valve and it's definitely moving gas. He said he'd expect to see one solenoid open to get the pilot lit, with the second opening later to allow the full amount of gas through, however the gas valve is outputting 11.5 mBar from the get go.
Replaced the electrodes and flame sensor on an off chance as these are cheap, although we knew that the old electrodes were sparking.
So essentially we have gas going in, we have a spark but we're getting no ignition still. He is leaning towards it being the top PCB (37 I think) being on the fritz, however there's no details in the manual about how to check the PCB other than by substitution.
Anyone have any suggestions before I end up buying some of the more expensive parts?
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Yeah, he said he'd phone the technical helpline tomorrow. I'm leaning towards a replacement now, but have no idea how much I should be paying for it. It would be a like for like swap for a different combi, I asked the guy I had round how much he charges and he said £1500 using a Baxi Main 30HE, which strikes me as a little on the expensive side.
However well he has been recommended, I do have some doubts about his capabilities.
The flame detection electrode is just that and has no function until the flame is lit.
Gas/air mixture will only ignite if it is between 5-15% gas.
There is a simple way to adjust the mixture on test which the Ideal engineers use as part of a mixture fault diagnosis.
Tony
The flame detection electrode is just that and has no function until the flame is lit.
Gas/air mixture will only ignite if it is between 5-15% gas.
There is a simple way to adjust the mixture on test which the Ideal engineers use as part of a mixture fault diagnosis.
Tony
Which is ?? post in CC maybe??
Hurrah, fixed it.
I did a bit of research last night about the issue and had the RGI round this morning.
I was having a gas/air mixture problem, it turned out that the burner was running too lean, the gas valve was functioning correctly but too much air was being added.
Basically on the front of the fan venturi sits a little metal ring which restricts the airflow. Apparently these are known to fall off on the smaller Responses. Sure enough, hiding in the back corner was a little metal ring. Sadly the manual gives no indication that such a ring even exists, however once it was located and pushed back into position the boiler fired up first time.
Special thanks go to this thread //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=169345
Success.
I did a bit of research last night about the issue and had the RGI round this morning.
I was having a gas/air mixture problem, it turned out that the burner was running too lean, the gas valve was functioning correctly but too much air was being added.
Basically on the front of the fan venturi sits a little metal ring which restricts the airflow. Apparently these are known to fall off on the smaller Responses. Sure enough, hiding in the back corner was a little metal ring. Sadly the manual gives no indication that such a ring even exists, however once it was located and pushed back into position the boiler fired up first time.
Special thanks go to this thread //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=169345
Success.
Oh dear! Thats my post about the simple test method I was referring to! But it was not in the CC !
That ring does not "just fall out". Even if it did, it would not end up at the back of the chamber.
It must have dropped out at some point when taking things apart.
Both of the engineers should have been aware of its location. Some would know how to "adjust the mixture" on test.
Tony
That ring does not "just fall out". Even if it did, it would not end up at the back of the chamber.
It must have dropped out at some point when taking things apart.
Both of the engineers should have been aware of its location. Some would know how to "adjust the mixture" on test.
Tony
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