Potterton E133 Ignition problem

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hi, have got the E133 error code for both HW and CH. The fault finding steps are check ignition electrode and lead, electrode connection and spark gap/position.

The boiler is firing up, that is to say it tries to run 3 times in a row before returning back to the E133 code. I can see the gas ignited through the chamber window which happens 3 times.
Would this suggest the igniter is ok? The other recommended check being 100v min across spark generator feed, is this needed as there is ignition in the chamber?

Could the issue be the flame sensing electrode not sensing the flame and thus shutting down, if so is there an easy test for that?

Thanks
 
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hi, have got the E133 error code for both HW and CH. The fault finding steps are check ignition electrode and lead, electrode connection and spark gap/position.

The boiler is firing up, that is to say it tries to run 3 times in a row before returning back to the E133 code. I can see the gas ignited through the chamber window which happens 3 times.
Would this suggest the igniter is ok? The other recommended check being 100v min across spark generator feed, is this needed as there is ignition in the chamber?

Could the issue be the flame sensing electrode not sensing the flame and thus shutting down, if so is there an easy test for that?

Thanks


Just checked again and I looked at the wrong fault finding section. The recommended check is check gas supply pressure, assuming this is ok for now.

Check mechanical set of gas valve CO2 values, flames sensing electrode and position.

Therefore back to original query, can I check the flame sensing electrode before moving to the other checks?

*********
Moderator's note
Please see https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/diy-gas.8090/ for this site's policy.

You are unlikely to receive instruction on your repair.
*********
 
Ok thanks for
Just checked again and I looked at the wrong fault finding section. The recommended check is check gas supply pressure, assuming this is ok for now.

Check mechanical set of gas valve CO2 values, flames sensing electrode and position.

Therefore back to original query, can I check the flame sensing electrode before moving to the other checks?

*********
Moderator's note
Please see https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/diy-gas.8090/ for this site's policy.

You are unlikely to receive instruction on your repair.
*********
ok thanks for that info. I am aware that gas work should not be undertaken unless qualified. I was hoping that a check between senor and pcb would be possible and assumed this would not be gaswork as not removing the sensor?

Also advice as to if this is the likely problem so I can have a rough idea of cost before I book an engineer.

Thanks
 
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Maax, is it not clear to you that the forum policy is not to give DIY gas repair advice?

Any engineer you call should be compent and know what to do.

If we told you then we know that you would be fixing it yourself!

Tony
 
Apologies but I thought I had made it clear in my second post that I would only be checking the afore mentioned sensor if it was possible without infringing gaswork regs. I thought taking a voltage, current or continuity check would be ok.
 
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I was hoping that a check between senor and pcb would be possible and assumed this would not be gaswork as not removing the sensor?
can I check the flame sensing electrode before moving to the other checks?
probably move on as that problem would be sorted/traced at the same time ;)
I was hoping that a check between senor and pcb would be possible and assumed this would not be gaswork as not removing the sensor?
it should be more than 0.5 mA

Also advice as to if this is the likely problem so I can have a rough idea of cost before I book an engineer.
an easy fault to trace for the engineers 95% of the time but not possible to give the answer here sorry but basing your costs on your diagnoses when not checking the basics could disappoint you deeply :)
 
probably move on as that problem would be sorted/traced at the same time ;)

it should be more than 0.5 mA


an easy fault to trace for the engineers 95% of the time but not possible to give the answer here sorry but basing your costs on your diagnoses when not checking the basics could disappoint you deeply :)

Many thanks Agas, I will give that a try. I assume if it is simply the flame sensor this does need a qualified gas safe engineer as the sensor is on the gas side?
 
Many thanks Agas, I will give that a try. I assume if it is simply the flame sensor this does need a qualified gas safe engineer as the sensor is on the gas side?

A flame sensor is part of the boiler combustion control and a safety device and certainly not something that a DIYer should be touching.

Apart from anything else do you have the knowledge and equipment to test the boiler combustion after touching it?
 
Ok, guys. back again. I thought i would give this another go before I can in the experts.
Same issue has re-occurred Error 133. Last time the system started to work again after resetting many many times.
Now i have same issue with both heating and hot water not working.
Before we go any further, i have not and dont intend on infringing any Gas Safe rules.
I have removed the cover that allows you to see all the magical components within the boiler.
There is a plate(bottom of the upper boiler) that separated all of the upper boiler stuff from the electrical/consumer controls below.
This plate has pipes and cables passing through which are somewhat sealed with grommets etc.
The plate is actually flooded. I dont think this was the case in previous E133 errors but could not swear to it.

With this new information of a leak (the pressure of the system has not dropped) and the E133 code, are there any simple fixes that do not require an expert?
Dont get me wrong, i have no problems with calling an expert if I can not do the job easily and legally.
I have had engineers out a few times on this same boiler and had various parts replaced (unrelated to E133).

I did go on British Gas this morning to get a quick quote for a new boiler fitted but their quote was around £3500 which excluded any pipework.

I tried another random online quote, which coincidentally quoted for exact same boiler that i have and that was £1800.
 
Before we go any further, i have not and dont intend on infringing any Gas Safe rules.
I have removed the cover that allows you to see all the magical components within the boiler.

You've contradicted yourself here - you shouldn't be removing that room-sealing cover from the boiler unless you're Gas Safe registered.

You don't need a new boiler. If you can't find a local engineer you trust, Baxi will do you a fixed price repair for around £300
 
You've contradicted yourself here - you shouldn't be removing that room-sealing cover from the boiler unless you're Gas Safe registered.

You don't need a new boiler. If you can't find a local engineer you trust, Baxi will do you a fixed price repair for around £300

Hi, are we referring to the metal cover that encloses the parts including expansion vessel, combustion chamber etc? I have removed this cover and nothing beyond it. I genuinely thought this was simply a cover to minimise noise.
I had this cover off a couple of years ago when the engineer came and replaced the heat exchanger (i know this is below and out side of the cover we are referring too), he did mention that that i should touch a lot of the stuff beyond the cover but never mentioned the cover itself.

Had i known just the removal of the cover its self should only be done by a Gas Safe engineer I would not have touched it.

OK, so you have know made it a lot easier for me knowing this. Also i was unaware of the Baxi fixed price repair you mention. I will look into this immediately.

Many thanks Muggles.
 

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