Immersion thread warped / not flat

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After my better judgement of not replacing the immersion heater for 14inch to a full size one. I took it off yesterday and the new one will not go back on square.

It appears the top of the immersion is not flat and is warped. Could the plumber have distored it in this way or was it likely like this went bought 4 years ago?


20221102_075748.jpg

I am trying to pack one side out with half washers to see if i can make a good seal and then lsx if that doesn't work.

The tank replacement is 600 for a 280l, but i am abit nervous not replacing it with it in this statem.
Getting a plumber out to actually xhange it witll be another mammoth task

I bought a cap to see if i have any more luck with that making a good seal
 
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1. I would say that is warped beyond redemption.
2. If you were to try and file it flat you would damage the threads.
3. However, presumably the threads are already damaged anyway through warping.
4. Without access to some serious engineering equipment I think it's new cylinder time.
 
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An example with 3 washers of the old one.

I think he must have just screwed this thing down with force and there was loads of compound round it. The threads are not cross threaded but a bit damaged and ive tried to rectify that.
How on earth could that have happened? I wonder if its because he didn't take enough foam off and the washer clamped bent and then it bent the boss around with it. When i went to fit it i saw thr insulation was too high one wjde and took it back and that's when i noticed

I can get it tight if i pump it with washers and pack one edge out, but now the tank is not filling at all even the gate valve is open and it's a separate bottom feed.

All other feeds from cold water tank are working fine.

I can only presume the gate valve is knackered or something is blocking the pipe, but i wont know till i strip that valve off, which is now getting beyond what i want to do myself



My idea was to try and pack it to seal it and then order another 600 quid tank, the issue for me is always finding a decent plumber.
 
It's usually the removal of the old immersion heater that twists the boss on the cylinder.......the walls of which are very thin.
You may be able to redeem things to an extent by very careful hammering of the flange that sits high but care is the operative word!
John :)
 
I recon you should fit the new immersion with one fibre washer and paste both sides then tighen it up as much as possible. This should pull the flange flat, if it leaks then replace the cylinder.

Andy
 
I cant get it to turn with it less than 2 washers. When it gets near the bottom it gets very tight, i tried going further twice and i feel it pop out the thread
 
After using the cap to help wind the threads and a few taps with hammer i got it to mate a bit better.

This is with 3 washers with lsx under and over the washer, tiny bit on threads and bit on immersion side.

If i use a screwdriver and press on washer on far right side it does flex a tiny bit so noy as tight, but this is as tight as it will possibly screw up with a few light taps with hammer.

Filled up tank by hand as my gate valve seems to be broken shut, even though the wheel moves like its winding (not freely).

I noticed i had water dripping via the shower pump valve in to the top of hw tank so i have shut the gate valve to the pump off and now it's a drip.., will wait 4 hours for lsx to set. Open shower gate valve up and see if it leaks just with that small amount of fill pressure. If it does ill order a new tank.

Then on friday I'm going to fully drain down and replace the hot water gate valve, fill it up again and see if it leaks with full pressure. If it does leak I'll get a new tank, if not will keep an eye for a few weeks.

I can only presume it was actually distorted like this originally as it came off fairly easily, although thread was tight right till the end
 

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Changed my mind. I put that half thin washer at the back to pack that extra few mm and a bit thicker lsx. Bottom washer now to tank has no flex and feels tight.

Will see how this holds up. Atleast we now havr cold water and potentially one tanks worth of hot to last till friday
 
Thanks all for the comments, for any one else reading, this is my advise.

If like me your plumber fitted a 14inch immersion heater in to your 1850mm tank, even if it was only several years ago, if it's not leaking do not touch it unless your boiler has packed up and you have no choice!
Do not listen to anyone stating its an easy job, you have no idea what damage has been done and the threads and boss are incredibly light weight.

It would appear my plumber did not remove enough insulation around the top to make way for the washer to protrude around the flange.
it came with the original thin washer and he must have arm wrestled to pull the immersion to the flange, partly compacting the insulation (but it doesnt compress well at all) and resulting in pulling the delicate flange in to a warped state where the flange was then raised on 1/3rd of the area.

My first mistake was cutting back the insulation so the washer sat properly, i may well have got the original immersion back on again as the insulation was providing the packing for it to mate in that unlevel state.

The threads were not cross threaded, but I could see they were a tiny bit shredded in 2 small areas with pieces of copper filings where it must have been over tightened.

When tightening it screwed in for several turns with no resistance and became very tight, if it ever gets tight wind it back and check it is not cross threading, then keep refitting by turning anti clock till it locks in place. In my case i kept doing another flat, winding it back and continously checking. Once i got 3/4 of the way it was incredibly tight and you'll see on the pictures it was because it was warped, then going past this point it caused the thread to jump off, when undoing there was no cross threading but it's because of the force of it trying to mate a flat surface with a warped one, the copper threads are weak so it just jumps off.


The solution I performed:
Buy some nice, thick, immersion washers. I bought 3 from toolstation, they are much wider and thicker than the thin, breakable fibre washer that comes with the immersion.

Buy an immersion blanking top, I got mine from screwfix and its a nice strong brass one and some lsx leak sealer.

Clean the mating surface 100% of all broken fibre washer and whatever gunk your prior plumber has put in there.
Clean the boss threads with an electical screw driver, ensuring the whole thread is 100% clean of any debris.

Insert brass immersion cap with small amount of copper slip on boss thread , start threading this in and any small resistance go back and lightly forth to help re-cut any threads that may not be smooth, all by hand. In my case after a turn or so it starts gets very tight as the boss is warped.

Get your spanner on the immersion cap and start going back and forth very slowly, easing it down.
After about half way mine was now incredibly tight, the boss is only soldered so if too much force is given it will snap.
Once you have gone as far as you can, back it off and do it a few times

In between I used a small hammer to lightly tap the raised area to try and encourage it flatter (its difficult to see if this helped)

In my case i could not get it lower than a 2 washer thickness. You are better off packing it thicker as there is less strain on the threads, you just need it to mate together under compression to perform a seal.

Fit your new immersion with 3 new, thick immersion washers and see how low it can go and how flat.
By now i had rectified a lot of the warping and from what was a difference of over 3x thin washer difference on one side, i had got it to one. I.e it was flat on one wide but i could shove 3x 1/3rd's of washer stacked.

Remove immersion, put lsx on under side of washer to immersion and then liberally on top of washer where it will sit against the flange before going for the final run.
Insert your thin, cut up to size of warped area fibre washer on top of your 2-3 washers on the side that is elevated, put some lsx on to stop it from moving and keep pushing that thin washer back in to position as you tighten.

In my case i tightened it more than I would have if it wasn't warped, but this allowed me to have the fibre washer completely mated the whole way round, there was no flex.

Leave the lsx to cure for 4 hours before turning on the water.
Open tank fill gate valve and constantly check for leaks, I left mine for a whole night before I boiled the water hot so i knew the lsx was 100% dry.

In my case after reopening the gate valve i was not getting any fill in to the tank. Aftet subsequently draining the tank partially later via the drain, it started filling again. In my case there must have been a bit of dirt get sucked in to the pipe when it was draining or some kind of air lock.

Me personally ,I am going to buy and fit another tank for piece of mind, but at this point large tanks are taking minimum 2 weeks to order.

Good luck
 
If the decision was to replace the cylinder then I would be tempted to try and anneal that and tap it back flat, wouldn't be the first time I've had to do that with a copper cylinder immersion hole. Cut back the foam so it's doesn't burn and gas you, vent well and wear a respirator.
 

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