induction hob wiring

I initially and incorrectly assumed you would get no or very little diversity for a cooker/hob combo.
So you initially assumed that if someone took a range cooker, and had at it with hacksaw and angle grinder, and managed to split it into two parts so that they could have the hob installed in a worktop, and the ovens installed in a kitchen cabinet, they would suddenly start to use more electricity.

How odd.
 
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As you've been asked, why do you see a difference between an oven+hob (separate units) and a cooker (oven+hob in same unit)?

Possibly due to assuming a combined unit has been designed to be on a single circuit and separates have not - Just the way I have till now interpreted things.

As above, what's all this obsession with 'separate'? You surely must have seen large cookers (with hob plus multiple ovens) 'all on one (probably 30/32A) circuit', haven't you?

To be honest, Other than my new extension; all hobs I have encountered in the past have been gas. Good point about combined ovens/hobs on a 30/32A circuit though.

Oh, and there is no obsession with separates; just follow the manufactures instructions where relevant.
 
Oh, and there is no obsession with separates; just follow the manufactures instructions where relevant.
They're hardly likely to state that you may, with correct design, have anything you want on the same circuit - are they?
 
Going back to my inital post, I was just concerned about nuisance tripping due to a overload on the MCB/Fuse. Diversity for some reason did not occur to me.

with correct design, have anything you want on the same circuit

Ok, in that case put the oven, hob, and all sockets/power circuits in the house on a single 32A mcb /30A fuse ;) :mrgreen:
 
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That wouldn't be correct design.

Was joking of course.... You could put all sockets in the house on a single 13 Amp FCU if you want to get very evil. :evil:

In hindsight any significant current over 32 amps for a oven and hob combined would be for such a short period, it would likely be fine.

If only I could take back what I said and did not jump the gun..... :rolleyes:
 
As you've been asked, why do you see a difference between an oven+hob (separate units) and a cooker (oven+hob in same unit)?
Possibly due to assuming a combined unit has been designed to be on a single circuit and separates have not - Just the way I have till now interpreted things.
Hopefully you now understand that the physical arrangement makes no difference - if all the components (hob,ovens, grills etc.) are in the same box, they will draw exactly the same amount of power as if they were in separate boxes - there is no way that one can 'design' a combined unit to defy the laws of physics!
As above, what's all this obsession with 'separate'? You surely must have seen large cookers (with hob plus multiple ovens) 'all on one (probably 30/32A) circuit', haven't you?
To be honest, Other than my new extension; all hobs I have encountered in the past have been gas. Good point about combined ovens/hobs on a 30/32A circuit though.
'Conventional' electric hobs were so awful that most people changed to gas when 'separates' appeared on the scene - but the advent of induction hobs has got the pendulum moving back the other way again. As BAS has pointed out, some of those 'combined ovens/hobs on 30/32A circuits' are monster 'range' cookers. With the application of diversity, a 32A circuit can have a cooking load of about "19kW".

Kind Regards, John
 
Ok, in that case put the oven, hob, and all sockets/power circuits in the house on a single 32A mcb /30A fuse ;) :mrgreen:
I know that was intended in jest, but there's a lesson to b learned about diversity here. A very generous 'diversity allowance' is allowed for domestic cooking appliances because they consist of lots of independently thermostatically-controlled elements which are inevitably cycling on and off all the time (off more than one,once they have 'warmed up'). No diversity is allowed on, say, a sockets circuit, since it's possible that the circuit could be 'fully loaded' with a number of loads which were, between them, drawing a total of 32A (or whatever) continuously.

Kind Regards, John
 
Pmsl :LOL: ........im ordering the box tomorrow and will get it hooked up next week once my work tops have arrived
 
I initially and incorrectly assumed you would get no or very little diversity for a cooker/hob combo.
So you initially assumed that if someone took a range cooker, and had at it with hacksaw and angle grinder, and managed to split it into two parts so that they could have the hob installed in a worktop, and the ovens installed in a kitchen cabinet, they would suddenly start to use more electricity.

How odd.
BAS,that's your best post EVER :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

DS
 
So you initially assumed that if someone took a range cooker, and had at it with hacksaw and angle grinder, and managed to split it into two parts so that they could have the hob installed in a worktop, and the ovens installed in a kitchen cabinet, they would suddenly start to use more electricity.

I missed that; LMAO :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

But seriously I use to assume that separate ovens and hobs were more powerful than their combined counterparts. [/quote]
 
But seriously I use to assume that separate ovens and hobs were more powerful than their combined counterparts.
Some pairs of separates undoubtedly are more powerful, but some may also be less powerful than some combined ones (i.e. 'cookers') - particularly if the combined on is a monster 'range cooker'

If you think about it, both hob and oven have to do the same job whether they are separate or combined, so the total power is going to be in roughly the same ballpark, whichever way on does it.

Kind Regards, John
 
Sorry what's you point ? John ww2
Have you been having 'a good evening', I wonder?

My post was written in very simple self-explanatory English, so I feel sure that you must be able to understand what it means - and 'what it means' is also 'my point'.

Kind Regards, John
 

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