Infill for Skirting

[mikey2004]

After taking the skirting off it has pulled the plaster off leaving a timber base with brickwork on top. See image...

What is the best way to fill this gap with, screw some plasterboard to the timber? Then skim?

 

[JohnD]

What a coincidence!

IMO skirting is all you need.

A good trick is to run two battens, one about 18mm above the floor, one to meet the bottom of the plaster(board) in such a way that they will be flush with the plaster(board).

Then you can lightly fix the skirting to the battens with csk screws, or glue, it will not matter if it is a bit higher than your pb. There will probably be a tiny crack or irregularity at the top, which you can fill with caulk.

To protect against draughts under the skirting, you can pack the space under the lower batten.

In your case, you may need to patch the plaster between the existing bottom of the old plaster, and the top batten. This is quite easy as you will have two flat surfaces to run your knife or trowel along.

 

[mikey2004]

The gap is about 11mm deep, and runs round most the room where the plaster has come off.

The skirting will cover the plaster as it will be taller, however just not sure on the best way to fill the 11mm gap and how to keep it flush. The walls are going to be skimmed too.

 

[Gerrydelasel]

Why do you want to fill it when it will be covered with skirting? The plaster skim should not go down to floor level, so what problem are you trying to fix?.

 

[mikey2004]

My thinking is to give a better fixing for the skirting at the bottom, if I don't put anything there then there is a void, if it is kicked or when carpet is fitted it could force it off?

 

[Gerrydelasel]

You can do it the traditional way like John said and attach a batten (called a nailer) along the bottom of the wall, flush with the plaster. Or you can just squirt expanding foam behind the skirting. But if your skirting is considerably higher than the line of plaster then you probably don't have a problem anyway, as the skirting will be quite firm, especially if you use internal mitres rather than coped.