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Installing a Heated Towel Rail?
- Thread starter Jammy78
- Start date
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Will you be compromising the heating in the room by exchanging rad for rail?
For example the difference between even small single rad of say 400mm x 800mm and an equivalent sized rail will be around 600 BTUs.
A small double glazed bathroom, say 1.8m x 1.5m x 2.4m could require about 920 BTUs.
For example the difference between even small single rad of say 400mm x 800mm and an equivalent sized rail will be around 600 BTUs.
A small double glazed bathroom, say 1.8m x 1.5m x 2.4m could require about 920 BTUs.
Lots of things can happen whilst plumbing, flooding due to leak, ceiling comes down, carpets get wet, fire if soldering joints, oxygenate the system causing corrosion to rads and boiler to name a few.
Not if I get this badboy.....
http://www.screwfix.com/p/kudox-curved-white-towel-radiator-1100-x-500mm-524w-1788btu/45438
Seriously then, is this really not a DIY job?
There are few variables to calculate to be sure if it would be rated suitable.
Room size (width x length x height)?
North facing?
Double/single glazed?
You should really be answering that question yourself!
I would never put anyone off DIYing but you need to be aware of what you are doing.
When it comes to the more potentially hazardous trades, I would suggest collecting enough knowledge about what you are doing, before you attempt it. then make sure you have the right tools and equipment to carry that job out safe and successfully.
Lots of potential hazards in both electrical and plumbing work, some are obvious and some are not so.
As you have stated in previous post you are happy to drain down system. I personally do not know the type of system you have, do you?
There are a few different ones and some require different methods of isolation to drain down properly.
Once you then connect all pipe work and are ready to fill system back up, you will then need to prevent the system oxygenating by using additives.
Also there are regulations that must be complied to in both trades.
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I've seen some websites that calculate this, I will check before actually buying
I've watched a few guides on youtube on installing the rail, making sure inhibitor is used after install etc...
I have a combi boiler & from the research I've done.... all you need to do is turn the boiler off & drain. Because I haven't found the drain pipe on any of the radiators ..... I was going to use this trick:
Does this sound like a good plan?
I think Tom has been drinking to much tango/carling cocktails!
His top tip seems to also include having the system drained down before he makes the video, therefore not showing what would really happen using that method, not a pray that three would be no water spray or spillage doing that! That's why his pipe was not in the van, system already drained down.
Your drain off valve should be found at the lowest point of the system, likely to be on a downstairs rad, could be more than one if you have solid floors.
Will the rail require altering the existing pipe work (rad tails) or is it a straight swap for rad?
His top tip seems to also include having the system drained down before he makes the video, therefore not showing what would really happen using that method, not a pray that three would be no water spray or spillage doing that! That's why his pipe was not in the van, system already drained down.
Your drain off valve should be found at the lowest point of the system, likely to be on a downstairs rad, could be more than one if you have solid floors.
Will the rail require altering the existing pipe work (rad tails) or is it a straight swap for rad?
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