Insulating internal walls

[jal]

Jal, the dot and dab idea is not always the best way.
Brick layers are often mean with their mortar and leave thousands of small holes in the walls. With dot and dab you may have cold air blowing between the insulation and the bricks.
A better way is to wet plaster the wall first to make sure there are no holes.
Then add adhesive all round the perimeter of each sheet.

Thanks for the advice will bear that in mind when i do start

 

[jal]

Jal, the dot and dab idea is not always the best way.
Brick layers are often mean with their mortar and leave thousands of small holes in the walls. With dot and dab you may have cold air blowing between the insulation and the bricks.
A better way is to wet plaster the wall first to make sure there are no holes.
Then add adhesive all round the perimeter of each sheet.

Thanks for the advice will bear that in mind when i do start

just some pictures to my progress, i've almost completed one of the walls, just the window wall left..

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• jal
• 4 Oct 2012
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• jal
• 4 Oct 2012
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• jal
• 4 Oct 2012
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chimey breast in bedroom

• jal
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

i'm thinking i might aswell remove the chimney breast while i'm doing the wall insulation.

chimney stack view from loft

• jal
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

this is the chimney stack view from the loft - If i remove these two bricks from the loft and work my way down into the bedroom chimney breast, would i still need to support anything from the loft?

i've read few other threads regarding chimney breast removals, and people use gallow brackets on the stack in the loft - but in my case i would be removing it from the loft as show in the pic.. do i still need to support anything prior to working my way down in the bedroom?

 

[Perry525]

Your picture isn't very helpful.
Please confirm that the chimney has been removed above the roof?
If it has not been removed, get rid of it before you remove the chimney in the room below.
Bricks weigh 45kilos a cubic foot, a chimney contains a lot of bricks, is very heavy and dangerous.
If it falls over it could kill you, it will do a lot of damage.

 

[jal]

Your picture isn't very helpful.
Please confirm that the chimney has been removed above the roof?
If it has not been removed, get rid of it before you remove the chimney in the room below.
Bricks weigh 45kilos a cubic foot, a chimney contains a lot of bricks, is very heavy and dangerous.
If it falls over it could kill you, it will do a lot of damage.

No the chimney hasn't been removed from the roof - would gallow brackets not be sufficient enough?

 

[Perry525]

If the chimney is a single stand alone chimney then take it down.
If it is part of a multiple set of chimneys that terminate above the roof as a group, then it will support itself.
Ask yourself a question, do you use any of a group, if you do not, get rid of them.

The front of a chimney is made of a single skin of brick and plaster, as such it is the second (to windows) coldest part of a room.
This is where you loose a lot of your heat.

 

[jal]

Just update on my progress - i've removed the plaster off the window wall, found some suprises!!

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• jal
• 6 Oct 2012
• 1

will need to cement in the gaps in the wall, also there are a couple of loose bricks which will also need cementing in

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• jal
• 6 Oct 2012
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• jal
• 6 Oct 2012
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whats the best way to fill in the gap under the window cills? shall i cement it in or fill it with expanding foam?


and final question, would it be advicable to PVA the walls down prior to putting the insulation plasterboards up?

thanks for all the advice given so far.


I think this thread should also be moved to 'my projects' - can the moderator do this for me please?

 

[jal]

Hi All,

some progress update on my internal wall insulation. I've got most of the walls covered with insulated plasterboards..

I was just wondering when i put my radiator back on - what fixings would be ideal to go up on the insulated plasterboard? i know i will need longer screws for a start to go through the insulated boards and then into the brick work!

Any advice or suggestions on fixings etc

Much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Perry525]

Fit some blocks of wood to the wall, the same thickness as the insulation plus plasterboard, then fix the radiator to the wooden blocks.
Wood is a reasonable insulator, not as good as foam, but you need the strength as radiator plus water is a lot of weight.

 

[jal]

Fit some blocks of wood to the wall, the same thickness as the insulation plus plasterboard, then fix the radiator to the wooden blocks.
Wood is a reasonable insulator, not as good as foam, but you need the strength as radiator plus water is a lot of weight.

Thanks for the reply - by looking at the pic's do you think i can get away from drilling direct through the boards into the wall and using rawl plugs & long screws? (there is sufficient amount of adhesive on the boards where the rad will go - to prevent it from being cracked/pushed back etc..

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• jal
• 23 Oct 2012
• 1

pic of the wall where the rad will go

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• jal
• 23 Oct 2012
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pic of depth from board to wall..


just still looking at what options are available for rad fittings

 

[Perry525]

As the insulation is not very thick, you will probably get away with it.
However, cutting through plasterboard with a Stanley knife is quite easy, I recommend, glue the board in place, then cut out a couple of strips the size of the radiator supports, fix the wood to the wall, then the radiator to the wood.
Consider the weight of the empty radiator, the water inside and someone leaning on it, this can be a lot of weight.
Note: A quarter inch thick steel screw can support 3 tons of weight before it will shear, however, offset from the wall as you propose it will bend under high enough loading.

 

[jal]

As the insulation is not very thick, you will probably get away with it.
However, cutting through plasterboard with a Stanley knife is quite easy, I recommend, glue the board in place, then cut out a couple of strips the size of the radiator supports, fix the wood to the wall, then the radiator to the wood.
Consider the weight of the empty radiator, the water inside and someone leaning on it, this can be a lot of weight.
Note: A quarter inch thick steel screw can support 3 tons of weight before it will shear, however, offset from the wall as you propose it will bend under high enough loading.

Thanks for the reply & advice.

I shall be putting in some nice 2 by 2 strips going down in vertical for the brackets to go on..

Will post pics after completed..

 

[calorific]

Out if interest, what happened to the chimney breast?

 

[jal]

Out if interest, what happened to the chimney breast?

I gave it a miss, was really tempted though -

 

[jal]

A quick update on my progress - all boards are up and skimmed & walls have dried out a week ago - i have applied my base coat on the walls - progress pictures are upload in my picture album..

Room feels a lot fresher and much more comfortable - in terms of feeling no drafts or coldness from exterior walls, though no radiator is connected in the room!

I will be applying my final paint (magnolia) sometime this week and also will be getting new skirting on.

What is the best method to apply the skirting on insulated boards.. i know you usually would screw them in to the walls, but my situation is slightly different here now.. is there any adhevise any one can recommend for sticking skirting?

Thanks



some images below - but plenty uploaded in my album:

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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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cutting out strips for new timber supports

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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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new timber support in place for rad

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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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testing the new double panel rad on the new supports!

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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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skimming dried up


first coat of base paint

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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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• jal
• 20 Nov 2012
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[Wade1]

How did you get on, did you manage to get rid of the condensation issue on the walls. I have the same issue with my house and wondered if this worked. If so I am thinking of doing the same.

cheers,