Intergas boiler

Joined
10 Feb 2007
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Location
Cumbria
Country
United Kingdom
Simple question.
As a gas engineer, would you install one based on merit? From engineers I have had positive feedback.
 
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Installed them for a few years but not any more. I do actually like them but I had numerous faults requiring parts under warranty. Having never required assistance from a manufacturer's engineer before or since.
 
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We fit them at work, only fault I had was on one, and the fan was stuck which I freed up, but it then made a racket, got them out under warranty. Only a few things I don’t like about them: the expansion vessel is at the back (boiler off the wall to change), aesthetics, and after heating has been on when you open the hot tap comes out extremely hot, so have to run for about 30 seconds or so.
 
We fit them at work, only fault I had was on one, and the fan was stuck which I freed up, but it then made a racket, got them out under warranty. Only a few things I don’t like about them: the expansion vessel is at the back (boiler off the wall to change), aesthetics, and after heating has been on when you open the hot tap comes out extremely hot, so have to run for about 30 seconds or so.
Isn't a flat plate heat exchanger dispensed with on the intergas Combi. I think dhw gathers heat on the primary heat exchanger?
Maybe need an anti scald valve?
 
Isn't a flat plate heat exchanger dispensed with on the intergas Combi. I think dhw gathers heat on the primary heat exchanger?
Maybe need an anti scald valve?

Yes I think it does, I mentioned TMVs to bosses, but a TMV on every outlet?
 
Yes I think it does, I mentioned TMVs to bosses, but a TMV on every outlet?
Sounds like "undertrained" is a very apt name for you... you shouldn't get the extremely hot water you describe unless the boiler is being set up to ridiculously high, inefficient flow temperatures. Fit it properly with decent controls and it's not an issue
 
Sounds like "undertrained" is a very apt name for you... you shouldn't get the extremely hot water you describe unless the boiler is being set up to ridiculously high, inefficient flow temperatures. Fit it properly with decent controls and it's not an issue

Yes it is, that’s why I chose it. I think my “training” has been poorly delivered and that’s why I joined this forum (perhaps I’m also a bit thick). When these boilers are setup, usually by a contractor or fitters, they set them up on usually the max ratings, so I think 80 for heating and 65 for dhw.
 
Yes it is, that’s why I chose it. I think my “training” has been poorly delivered and that’s why I joined this forum (perhaps I’m also a bit thick). When these boilers are setup, usually by a contractor or fitters, they set them up on usually the max ratings, so I think 80 for heating and 65 for dhw.
That's just madness. They won't even condense with an 80°C flow temperature - it's just too high so you end up chucking a load of heat out of the flue. 70 is plenty usually
 
Madness and customers go hand in hand often. 75 is what a rad is designed to work at and that high isn't a problem if there's a plate heat exchanger. If the heat exchanger is a good one the flue will may not be that be hot, that depends on balancing and the return temperature. Contact with 70 degree hot water will create a 3rd degree burn in less than one second in an adult.
 
The Intergas Rapid has the expansion vessel on the front swinging out on a hinge. A DIY job to replace.
 
They are the only combis that:
  • Can be open vented by an F&E tank, so an easy fit in some instances;
  • Having it open vented (low pressure) on an old rad system means no leaks when on a high pressure;
  • The CH section does not need filling for DHW to work;
  • The DHW section does not need filling for CH to work;
 
The Intergas Rapid has the expansion vessel on the front swinging out on a hinge. A DIY job to replace.
Not a DIY job I'm afraid - in common with most other makes of boiler, the case forms the safety room seal and as such should only be removed and replaced by a Gas Safe Engineer capable of carrying out the regulatory 26.9 checks on completion. DIYers should not be removing it to do anything at all.
 

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