Is a lever ball valve suitable as a main stop valve?

25 Nov 2007
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United Kingdom
My parents let out a flat built in the mid 60s. The main stop valve looks like it has been attacked by previous owners armed with Stillsons over the years and only just shuts off if you use a lot of force. It's not leaking around the spindle (yet).

Could I install a full-bore, lever ball valve downstream of the old valve, and just leave the old valve fully open and semi-seized? Not ideal, I know, but less risky than messing around with freeze kits. The valve in the road isolates the whole block, and looks a nightmare to turn anyway.

Was thinking of Screwfix 80413 which claims to be WRAS approved:

Pipe is copper, presumably 1/2", so I'd have to use appropriate olives.

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Scottish Water permit them mate. In fact the last Water Inspector I spoke to preferred them. BS1010 stopcocks are rubbish, need re-washered & leaking packing glands.
Nobody makes 1/2" olives that will allow you to fit a 15mm valve/fitting to 1/2" imperial copper tube.

The capnuts on the valve in situ will almost certainly have a 1/2" BSP thread, and you might be able to fit another BS1010 stoptap in its place using said capnuts, but you might have to convert using a soldered coupler.

How about fitting a Surestop?
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Thanks everyone, that was quick and informative :cool:
Nobody makes 1/2" olives that will allow you to fit a 15mm valve/fitting to 1/2" imperial copper tube.
Oh! Thanks for that. I'm sure I've read somewhere words to the effect that you can do this by subbing the supplied olives for 1/2" ones, but I'm sure you're right. :confused:

Had thought about a SureStop but no real need here as the mains enters in the corner of the bathroom and is very easy to access.


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