Is an uneven wall when plastered on brick acceptable?

[GGGG]

hi

We are being given conflicting advice on whether our newly plastered wall is acceptable and wondering if people here could help.

We had a leak and had to remove plaster from our kitchen wall. The wall had exposed brick work and a plasterer has repaired this, bonding plaster and then finishing plaster. We are going to have IKEA kitchen units on the wall and have been told that the wall should be straight by the fitter, however the newly plastered section of the wall dips by 10 mm in the centre of the wall so the rail on which the units will hang is not flush.

The fitter has said the plaster should make this even and that checking a wall is level is basic plastering skills. The plaster was adamant it doesn't make any difference and unwilling to do make it level.

Is is acceptable to leave a wall like this? Would making the wall even be difficult now as the finishing coat has been applied? Will it create a problem when fixing the units to the wall?

The plaster is due to return to finish painting the room.

Thank you

 

[roughcaster]

Of course a plastered wall should be plumb and even. Any real plasterer worth his salt would know how to make a "float and set" plastered wall level, straight and plumb. A real plasterer would temporarily put wooden "dots" on each wall, and then make a plaster screed across the wall, from which he would work, using a long straight edge. The "dots" would be set, plumbed up from the bottom of the wall. One "dot" at each end of the wall would be set first, then a string line would be set along the wall, and other "dots" put in place to give you a perfectly "straight" wall, both along the length horizontally, and also vertically,, perfect for fitting worktops, cupboards, shower screens, tiling, etc, and anything else to be fitted against it, wiithout having gaps and hollows. Not easy to explain, but to an experienced plasterer, it would be second nature.

Any chance of a photo?

 

[GGGG]

Yes, of course, photos below. Is this fixable?

 

[roughcaster]

It's hard to say whether the 10mm dip will make any difference. It shouldn't be there at all. The kitchen fitters have said what they think, and I'd agree with them,, the wall should be straight. If things don't go right during the installation, because of this un-even wall, then the plasterer will be held responsible. It wouln't be that difficult to build out/straighten up/ and feather away that dip in the wall, and then fit the brackets.

 

[GGGG]

Thank you this is very helpful.

 

[noseall]

Lols!
Not all walls are straight and true or bereft of humps or hollows. Tell your fitters to stop being so precious and get on with it. Have they never heard of packers.

 

[rochester plasterer]

Of course a plastered wall should be plumb and even. Any real plasterer worth his salt would know how to make a "float and set" plastered wall level, straight and plumb. A real plasterer would temporarily put wooden "dots" on each wall, and then make a plaster screed across the wall, from which he would work, using a long straight edge. The "dots" would be set, plumbed up from the bottom of the wall. One "dot" at each end of the wall would be set first, then a string line would be set along the wall, and other "dots" put in place to give you a perfectly "straight" wall, both along the length horizontally, and also vertically,, perfect for fitting worktops, cupboards, shower screens, tiling, etc, and anything else to be fitted against it, wiithout having gaps and hollows. Not easy to explain, but to an experienced plasterer, it would be second nature.

Any chance of a photo?

the dots and string lines are for laying patios not 3mm plaster

 

[roughcaster]

Who's talking about 3mm of plaster? The man said his "wall was taken back to brick", you dont plaster that back out with 3mm of plaster, ROFL..
Have you honestly "never" used dots and string lines on brick/block, float and set walls, to form accurate screeds using a straight edge? hmm. There is far more to plastering than just skimming with 3mm.

 

[rochester plasterer]

Yea I inderstand the question just the string lines and dabs and tossing around sounds like hard work any decent spread would bang a few bags of hardwall over the lot and rule it off flat as a pool table and skim over same day job done

 

[roy c]

Have a look in my albums at "dabbing walls" this is what roughcaster means....

 

[rochester plasterer]

I see what you mean have you done a plastering course before Roy ? Or just learned with another spread ?

 

[roughcaster]

Yea I inderstand the question just the string lines and dabs and tossing around sounds like hard work any decent spread would bang a few bags of hardwall over the lot and rule it off flat as a pool table and skim over same day job done

Ok RP,
So you have an old concrete block wall that has had all the plaster removed. The wall is 25/30feet long and 8'6" or so, high. The wall in many places is 3/4 of an inch or more, off the plumb. When a straight edge is placed across the blockwork along the length of the wall, it dips in and out, it's all over the place.The owners do not want that wall battened and boarded. They just want the wall to be re-plastered, straight and plumb, ready to paint. They want to fit new, deep skirting boards, and fit a beautiful new picture rail around the top of the wall. How would you "accurately" straighten and plumb up that wall? How would you make sure there were no gaps showing along the top of the skirting, and along the picture rail after they were fitted?

 

[rochester plasterer]

I would simply buy enough bags of hardwall to cover that area at a decent thickness Wack the whole wall on and rule it up and across checking with a straight edge as I go. Once the hardwall has pulled in I would skim multi finish over the top, speed skim that flat Then 2nd coat - trowel up - cut skirting line. Job jobbed. I wouldn't cut little off cuts of wood and dot and dab them all over the wall and and try and work from them all dabbed everywhere lol I can understand if you had a 20 meter long wall 3meter high I would consider breaking it up with 3 meter batterns or just get another spread to help. Be good to hear any other plasterers opinions.

 

[rochester plasterer]

Royc, I can see what your trying to achieve in this pic but wouldn't it be easier to do 1meter apart batterns floor to ceiling and rule up them around all walls removing the coving also

 

[roughcaster]

You wouldn't use little off cuts of wood dabbed all over the wall, the ones I use are about 16 inches long, strategically placed, and plumb, across the wall, using a string line, and placed to suit the length of a straight edge. Along the bottom of th wall is a wooden "ground", permanently fixed to the wall, about 3 or 4 inches up from floor level. I wish I could show you how to do it. I was taught to plaster this way more than 50 years ago, and i've done it ever since. It's accurate, it's simple to do, and there's no guess work.It's all done in one day the same as you said, and you don't have to keep trying your straight edge over the wall to keep checking it. Once the wall (hardwall or whatever) has been coated out, let it pick up, give it a float over, let it set, then your're ready for finishing. Job done, level and plumb.