is paintable acrylic sealant better than decorators caulk?

[Ianthedecorator]

I dont totaley dismiss once and solo ,esp if a customer has already bought them to be used on small areas but has you probabley know 5 litres of dulux gloss or similar is much more cost effective on a bigger job ,ian

 

[TheDec]

Ian.

Yes you are right there, but the application will first require undercoating. If in this situation if you were to gloss on gloss crazing can often occur.

As we are aware all oil based paints will yellow after time once and solo are no exeption, these paints rely on the condition of existing glosswork, natural light and most importantly a warm atmosphere during application.

If applied in the correct conditions these paints will peform with superb result.

 

[jondecs]

Solo and once in my opinion are, as ian stated prviously, only good where the existing paintwork is already white, sound with hardly any filling. I
have just tried a hallway where existing white woodwork had yellowed (10yrs old) I once'd all doors with roller one day. Had to lose a day. so only two dys later when I did the trims in same paint (once) doors were yellowing ok they all went yellow by end of job but I reckon by the time I'd messed about applying once, heavily and gently to make sure it covered without shadowing and using much more gloss than conventional, The rest of house I did in u/c (dulux acrylic primer/uc) looks sooo much better..

 

[TheDec]

Exactly my point, it's the condition of the existing glosswork that will determine whether these paints are suitable.

Gloss in that condition that has'nt had a redec in 10 years is not the ideal surface, It is really only intended for glosswork in good condition.

Dec.

 

[Bucks]

All this yellowing so quickly is the reason I am now using the Dulux waterbased diamond satinwood.

Anyway back to my last question,

Thanks again Guys for both your help, its much appreciated

The woodwork has all had two coats of the Diamond Satinwood, I then papered the walls yesterday with blown vinyl, today I have done all the filling with this paintable acrylic.

I want to put another one or two more coats of satinwood on the woodwork, am I better doing this before I emulsion the walls, as I imagine it would be easier to cut in the emulsion rather than the satinwood, also if I get any emulsion on the satinwood I hope that it will wipe of easily,
I am planning on protecting the skirting & dado while I do the bulk of the emulsion with a roller then when it is dry paint around the woodwork with a brush.

Does this sound about right, or should I be doing the emulsion before the woodwork?

 

[opps]

Paints such as once & solo rely on a number of factors regarding both finish and longevity.

These paints are termed as thixotropic, while left undisturbed they will remain to be semi solid. However when in anyway agitated they become a liquid.

These paints if used and applied on the correct substrate should not be dismissed.

Dec.

I have to take issue to a degree.

Some of these paints are sold as one coat finishes to be applied by roller.

I have never seen a roller that gives perfect coverage in one coat. The thickness will vary and there will be air bubbles.

Non drip gloss is thixotropic and still crap.

With regard to the water based eggshells etc. I groan when I walk into a house and see that a diyer had used it in the past because I know that it will be a b!tch to sand back

I agree that many decorators are quick to scoff at anything new. I consider myself to be fairly open minded with regard to new products but feel that the paint manufacturers are hoodwinking the punters with promises of a perfect finish without any of the pain.

 

[opps]

All this yellowing so quickly is the reason I am now using the Dulux waterbased diamond satinwood.

Anyway back to my last question,

Thanks again Guys for both your help, its much appreciated

The woodwork has all had two coats of the Diamond Satinwood, I then papered the walls yesterday with blown vinyl, today I have done all the filling with this paintable acrylic.

I want to put another one or two more coats of satinwood on the woodwork, am I better doing this before I emulsion the walls, as I imagine it would be easier to cut in the emulsion rather than the satinwood, also if I get any emulsion on the satinwood I hope that it will wipe of easily,
I am planning on protecting the skirting & dado while I do the bulk of the emulsion with a roller then when it is dry paint around the woodwork with a brush.

Does this sound about right, or should I be doing the emulsion before the woodwork?

I agree that the poor flow rate of the waterbased eggshell means that it will be easier to cut the emulsion in last.

You might need to roll and cut in at the same time depending on the sheen level of the emulsion (final coat only) otherwise you might get blushing where you cut in. Floetrol will help to reduce this.

 

[opps]

dont cut the nozzle tip at a angle ,cut it straight across as this makes it ten times easier to apply

??????

If you cut at an angle you will get the desired effect with minimal smoothing, possibly with no need to smooth.

Do you apply silicone in the same way?

 

[opps]

BTW

Cheap, ie the price you pay, is not always an indicator of quality.

eg everbuild 125 is Toolstation's cheapest and best, but you can pay x3 more in some places for the same product.

Painters mate is one of the most expensive but I stopped using it when I saw it cracking even before paint had been applied

 

[ic1927]

I agree about the everbuild 125 caulk, it is very good. Also found everbuilds powder filler to be good too, dries quick and sands down easily.

 

[Bucks]

Let us know how you get on with the dulux stuff, also with regard to shrinkage and feathering.

I have done one of the rooms & painted it all now.
I am no expert but from my bit of experiance of the Dulux paintable acrylic sealer over the last few days, I prefer it over the caulk, it is a little bit more messy to use (the sealer still keeps coming out of the nozzle after i release the trigger)
With regards to shrinkage, I'm not sure if some of the larger filled areas have shrunk a very little bit or not, maybe I have just wiped a bit more out on those areas.
Feathering seems spot on to me, it just seems to run seamlessly onto the trims, I used baby wipes over my finger instead of the wet finger to smooth it, i did also give it a coat of BIN,

so only time will tell if its going to crack like the caulks seem to.

I would recommend you give it a try, I would be interested to here what you think of it, as I said I'm no expert.

 

[opps]

http://www.geocel.co.uk/product.aspx?id=71&pt=aguns

These guns stop goo running out of the end when you stop pulling the trigger. The presuure release tab has a little nylon insert which means that you only need to touch it when you are replacing tubes.

Thanks for letting us know how it went.

 

[Bucks]

Mine looks pretty much the same as that apart from a different colour, it is fine with all the caulks just with this dulux acrylic sealer.

 

[opps]

Mine looks pretty much the same as that apart from a different colour, it is fine with all the caulks just with this dulux acrylic sealer.

Does it have the little black nylon insert in the middle of the metal release tab?

That little bit of nylon makes all the difference.

 

[Bucks]

Mine looks pretty much the same as that apart from a different colour, it is fine with all the caulks just with this dulux acrylic sealer.

Does it have the little black nylon insert in the middle of the metal release tab?

That little bit of nylon makes all the difference.

Yep