Is this a mess?

[AdamW]

This illustrates one of the many problems when buying houses. You want to know what you are getting, but it can feel awkward to ask the owners if they mind you removing accessories to check cabling, or looking in the cupboard under the stairs (which they have no doubt stuffed all their junk in for the viewing!)

Wylex fuseboxes are quite common from 1980s properties. E.g. mine is 1985 and has Wylex rewireable fuses. In the photo there is a cartridge fuse sitting on top of the one at the very bottom, would that help estimate a date?

I really don't like the black cable coming out of the black unit: no outer insulation on the first few inches. Not to mention the same no one of those T&Es coming from the Henley block.

I reckon you should attempt to get the wiring taken account of in the haggling anyway, I remember reading that 25 years is the recommended time between rewires, if that isn't 25 yet it is very nearly there!

 

[--tom]

Would anyone care to analyse the pic that plugwash has posted? I've figured out some of the details but would like my interpretation confirmed.

 

[DagenhamDave]

I can clarify some of it as I've re-visited and had a brief summary from an electrician. The sellers have also asked their own electrician to give his view so it should be interesting comparing the two!

At least some of the house was re-wired in 1986 as I've seen the plans for the kitchen extension. I'm told the rest of the house was done at the same time but can't confirm this 100%.

The main fuse is 100a and the meter has been replaced fairly recently.
There is a single ring powering upstairs and downstairs
There is a single lighting circuit powering upstairs and downstairs
Both are housed in a single-switched unit. 30a and 5a re-wireable fuses. (Black unit to the right of the meter) with red and white dots.

There is a separate circuit powering the cooker. 30a cartridge
(White unit bottom left of picture)

There is a separate circuit powering the shower. 30a cartridge
(White unit just above the cooker unit)

The 'thing' at the top right with the dodgy wiring is someone's attempt at fitting a doorbell and is labelled 'ChimeMaster'. It doesn't work.

There is an earth present in all the lighting circuits.

Downstairs includes metal power sockets and these include the correct earthing arrangement.

There are unsleeved earths in the power and lighting circuits.

A junction box for the lighting circuit in the attic is lying on top of insulation with exposed wires.

The wiring for the lighting circuits located in the attic are 'floating' across the insulation and are not fixed to anything.

A junction box in an upstairs cupboard is supplying the timer for the boiler, the power socket for the iron and a wall-light.

Questions:
The shower is rated at 8.5kW. Is this acceptable from a 30a fuse at the consumer unit? There is an isolating switch outside the bathroom but no RCD.

Same for the cooker. It's a built-in double-oven.
Upper = 1000w, Lower = 1000w, Grill = 2000w
Wired from the consumer unit > cooker socket > FCU > Cooker

 

[plugwash]

in what you said i still see mention of what that metal mem box is doing

also there are no rcds anywhere to be seen

i would say that that mess should be replaced with a single modern split load CU to provide rcd protection to the sockets and shower (and possibility also the cooker)

as for the cooker and shower what size cable are they wired in?
6mm?

if the shower is wired in 6mm it should be placed on a 40A breaker in the new CU

a wall light wired of a socket cuircuit with no fising is dodgy but its a trivial issue to resolve (just put in a FCU)

 

[securespark]

Shower.

8500@230 = 36.96A.

Should be on 40A breaker.

Should have RCD too. But then again, the shower probably replaced a 7.5kW unit, so is the cable up to the job? Is the DP switch rated suitably?

Cooker.

4000W@230 = 17.39A.

Of course, you can use diversity, but most now wire a circuit to allow "full-on", so you could ditch the fcu, and fit a 20A fuse. This will give you a circuit capable of supplying flc. (Sorry, full load current).

Is Hob gas?