ISOLATOR SWITCH

How would you get one of these isolators installed without doing any of the following:
  • Incurring delays waiting for the DNO to attend.
  • Incurring costs for DNO attendance.
  • Illegally pulling the supplier fuse.
  • Working with live conductors.

Isolators fail, as do main switches. Having two of them in series doubles the chance of a failure.


I think the connections are poorer than henley blocks which have nice round holes for your tails, and two screws per connection, and even if they get hot it doesn't really matter, it's just a solid brass bar. I can't remember having ever seen a failed henley block.

I haven't fitted a henley block for years either.
 
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How would you get one of these isolators installed without doing any of the following:
Whichever you choose, it is only ever needed once.

Thereafter, no need to choose one.


I haven't fitted a henley block for years either.
How would you split the tails to supply another CU or a switchfuse?

Do you think that if you have got multiple CUs etc that a single point of isolation is required?


Edited to fix broken quote.
 
The DNO insist on fitting an isolator in the new supply that will laid into in the cottage I am about to buy.
 
I haven't fitted a henley block for years either.
How would you split the tails to supply another CU or a switchfuse?

I would happily use a henley for this, but I've not had a job where this is required for a long time.

Do you think that if you have got multiple CUs etc that a single point of isolation is required?

If each CU has a main switch, then no.
 
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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their posts, unfortunately they have become a bit too technical for me, however I'm glad they sparked a lot of debate! javascript:emoticon(':LOL:')[/b][/i]
 
Isn't there something in the GN's about a single point of isolation?
 

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